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Uptown’s La Fiorentina Brunch Is Sweet

by Steven Doyle

There is nothing more soothing and regenerative as the Sunday Brunch cocktail the Mimosa. Use a really nice Prosecco instead of the generic sparkling wine and you have a moment of bliss. What could possibly be better? Use fresh squeezed OJ as they do in the very rustic and very open bar at La Fiorentina

Now considered one of my favorite and more elegant brunches in Uptown  La Fiorentina has been serving the Sunday dishes just a few weeks, but has already garnered a nice late Sunday crowd. The new patio doesn’t hurt the traffic flow, and this past weekend that is where most of the diners chose to sit despite the elevated humidity.

The latest incarnation of Alberto Lombardi bleeds old world authentic charm and authenticity in this turn of the century church house location. The rafters are all original and most of the building has been retooled using the original woods and a few of the church’s stained glass.

The brunch menu is vast, using some of the regular day lunch items fused with a grand selection of upscale brunch fare at extremely reasonable prices. The choices are difficult so you may wish to enjoy the lovingly toasted breads that are served with European butter and homemade mixed berry marmellata, something that can be addictive unto itself.

Scouring the menu for the perfect choice, I was tempted by the Uova alla Bismark con Filetto, a beautiful plate of fried eggs, thick spears of asparagus and a most tender beef filet all served with a truffled hollandaise.

The Oysters Rockefeller called to me, but I resisted and ordered the Florentine Benedict which is seared polenta, San Daniele prosciutto, sauteed spinach, poached egg & Prosecco hollandaise.

It only seemed fair to pair the Prosecco laden orange juice with the Prosecco hollandaise.

The polenta was buttery with a slight al dente graininess that assured me all was well with the world. The freshly wilted spinach mopped up the extra silky hollandaise that was neither abundant nor lacking with each bite. The light sauce made its way to each bite to the delicious eggy end. The dish is also served with incredibly dense hash browns that are creamy with a big bite.

Feeling very satisfied I was content to order yet another mimosa, but my companions were eye-balling the dessert menu. I wouldn’t normally think brunch dessert, as brunch seems like a dessert to me in itself. But there were some pretty fair selections including profiteroles and an oven baked bread pudding. The table elected to go another route. There was a brunch item I had not previously considered in the Nutella-filled

French toast with caramelized banana. The dish comes strewn with whipping cream and a side of ample maple syrup. I managed to snag a large slice of the rich dish that should always be shared and it was even more sinful than I had imagined. Think double slices of the same bread served earlier sandwiched with Nutella, lightly batters and seared to encapsulate the generous layers of authentic Italian hazelnut spread.

There needs to be more stuffed French toast options, just as I think there should be more rolled meats and meats on a stick.

Brunch at La Fiorentina was lingering without a hint of being rushed. The service was extremely attentive, but not in the annoying way. As the water glasses began to seat in the humidity, they were quickly wiped down and refilled. The waiters worked in unison to assure every detail was cared for. And back to that open bar… how fun is that?

4501 Cole Ave – Dallas
(972) 528-6170

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