by Steven Doyle photos by Robert Bostick
One of the absolute best things that I have eaten in months is made by bad-boy chef John Tesar of The Commissary. The Commissary makes a great option for those in the Arts District wanting a late night nosh and is one of the most solid values found in downtown Dallas. There you can find a chef-driven five dollar burger that satisfies and lifts the spirits.
Recently I found an item on Tesar’s special board that I probably would not have necessarily ordered had sommelier Scott Barber not insisted I try the sandwich. He stood next to me and said, “Seriously… order the Pork Belly BLT. Seriously.”
I ordered the Pork Belly BLT. The sandwich is a large shank of pork belly (the stuff bacon is made from) that has a slight delicious crunch and topped with a sous vide tomato that is later seared for a little color. The ingredients are packed onto a firm brioche bun and saddled with a few of Tom Spicer’s greens. This upgraded BLT with the the addition of Tesar’s signature skinny fries is nothing short of breathtaking.
At first bite the tomato erupts with a volcanic force, spilling out its juices and saturating the bun. The pork belly is moist with a slight chew. The sandwich is sincerely genius.
I asked Tesar yesterday if he planned to keep the BLT around and he said as long as there were tomatoes available he would offer the sandwich.
While visiting, be sure to take a bite of Tracy Tesar’s buttermilk pie. It will make you happy.
That last sentence sounds awfully dirty …
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