Absinthe In Dallas

by Steven Doyle

Absinthe carries a large stigma that we often associate with the Jazz Age, an era where writers and other artists were thought to have droned out on the liqour in a psychedelic mind meld due to one of its flavoring ingredients, wormwood. Although wormwood does contain an agent called Thujone, little of the toxin may be found in Absinthe as most of it is removed during distilling. The sprit was banned in many countries due to the wild stories associated with the drink, some of this hysteria induced by winemaker’s associations. It was finally banned in the United States in 1912.

In the 1990’s Absinthe enjoyed a rebound of popularity and in 2007 the wholesale ban of Absinthe was lifted with a few stipulations. Absinthe must be relatively Thujone-free, the labeling may not contain the word “absinthe” in the brand or stand-alone, and the marketing may not project psychotropic images that may falsely portray Absinthe as mind altering.

In December 2007, St. George Absinthe Verte, produced by St. George Spirits of California became the first brand of American-made absinthe produced in the United States since the ban.

Today, Absinthe can be found in most upscale bars across Dallas and Fort Worth. Some bartenders, like those at Bolsa and Cedars Social, use absinthe as a flavoring agent for a variety of cocktails. Others are more traditional, using the method of infusing a sugar cube and a slow water drip into a shot of the spirit.

Absinthe Lounge, which is located below the Southside of Lamar, serves a large variety of absinthe including Kublar, Absente, Mata Hari, and La Tourment Verte, and implement the old standards of pouring absinthe.

Charlie Papaceno at the Windmill also has an Absinthe Fountain hidden under the bar and carries a few brands. He is more than happy to share stories about absinthe and serve it in a full traditional manner.