Bryan Street Tavern Has New Kitchen And A Real Chef

by Steven Doyle

In just a few short years Bryan Street Tavern etched its way into the dive bar scene with its great pizza and cold beer.  Bryan Street always has a good line up of bands and there is plenty of room to mix and mingle with the swelled crowds each weekend. The fenced in patio area is near legendary.

So why go and muck it all up with more beer taps, and a fancy new kitchen? I will answer my own question: because it is awesome.  

Since opening there has never been a shortage of generic beers at Bryan Street, but now the bar is kicked up with 20 taps offering many local brews such as their house favorite Peticolas. And when you are not drinking the beer, or thinking about ordering a beer you can peruse the new menu brought to us by the new chef, William Keller.

Keller has an austere cheffing background, working fine dining for many years and most recently at Woodhaven Country Club. But now you can find the chef all jazzed about burgers, pizza and wings in his tiny kitchen on Bryan Street.

“It’s always been about the food, and now it’s about the fun.  I have this little kitchen, it’s like cooking in a phone booth, but I get to do exactly what I dream of each night,” said Keller.

The kind of food Keller is talking about includes his Philadelphia cheese steak that is laden with real honest-to-goodness Cheese Whiz. The man went to the University of the Arts in Philadelphia, so he is fully aware on  the inner workings of making a great Philly. And the Bryan Street version is spot on crazy good.

Forget all the odd accoutrements that might be on any cheese steak found in town. This chef says it is about a good cut of meat, a nice roll and Cheese Whiz. This is unpretentious.

Keller is truly enjoying his job and it shines through in his offerings each day, from a home-made bar pretzel to some amazing wings all chef-sauced and happy. And Keller doesn’t stray too far when gathering groceries. His favorite places to shop are Jimmy’s Food Store a few blocks down Bryan Street, and Spicer’s urban garden just next door to Jimmy’s.

Other dishes we enjoyed on a recent visit to Bryan Street tavern includes Keller’s chili dog. Massive in heft and flavor, it is sloppy, packed with homemade chili and will make you take a nap instantly after finishing the entire project.

The red bell pepper hummus is one of the finest examples you will locate in Dallas.

No visit is complete without checking out at least one of the pizzas at Bryan Street. This has been my go to late night pizza since 2009. The brick oven is blazing hot and crisps the pizza to perfection, and gives the ingredients a blaze that settles them into the massive layer of cheese. Bryan Street’s pizza is really one of my favorites.

When not in the kitchen you might spot the chef making happy with the many customers. He is the guy wearing the chef t-shirt. You might also spot him sitting in with a band behind the drum kit or raring back on a guitar.  Again, for Keller it is about the fun and as long as he keeps everyone happy with his food he has free reign to cut loose.

For those that are suffering a hang over, or two, Keller is offering Saturday and Sunday brunch with farm fresh eggs and he also has a breakfast pizza he makes with goat cheese, Prusciuitto.

“The Eggs Benedict I am really digging because it’s not the norm. I make a tarragon sweet vermouth hollandaise with Prusciuitto and using the French bread  I use on our sandwiches,” said Keller.

Check out the fresh faced Bryan Street Tavern located at 4315 Bryan Street between Peak and Fitzhugh. Be sure to ask Keller to play Freebird.