by Steven Doyle
Last week our beloved wine guru, Andrew Chalk, checked out the new summer menu at Central 214. The rest of the staff was so taken by the menu and the glowing review Andrew had for the restaurant and Chef Graham Dodds that we went in for a looksee ourselves. We were not prepared for what the chef had in store. Some of these are specials, and others can be found on the current menu. What is amazing is the fact that Dodds always keeps it fresh. Let’s just call this Central 214 Week at CraveDFW and move forward with the feast we enjoyed.
When we sat down at the table the one thing we agreed on was that the soft shell crabs would soon be in our bellies. And they were. These crabs are lightly frittered and served with fresh watermelon batons and an amazing feta from Caprino Royale, the Waco micro-dairy. What makes the cheese so delectable is its creaminess and lack of that jolting salt spike often associated with feta. Want a taste for yourself? Order the crab at 214 or stop in at Scardello’s and tell Rich you are craving a bite of the Caprino feta.
Huge standouts at this particular meal was the lush tartare, sautéed long beans, beautifully roasted morels that graced our steak, and finally, just to amuse us, Dodds wheeled out a giant haunch of red wattle pig that he had been slowly cooking that day. You can get a taste of that same pig when you order the chop which is served with a splendid array of figs. I never grow weary of the mastery of this particular chef.
I will be back this weekend to blaze through another dish of the soft shell crab. I have had some fine examples of the crab this summer, and this has been my ultimate favorite so far. Make a reservation if you are able.
