by Andrew Chalk
Naan Sushi on Cedar Springs Road in Uptown has closed and the huge, sprawling, multi-roomed space is now Sfuzzi relived. There are two main dining rooms, several small private dining rooms off the main space, and a dark and booming bar in the back. This branch replaces the McKinney Avenue location closed just over a year ago. The executive chef is a little known newcomer to the Dallas dining scene, a Mr. Avner Samuel. I also spotted the talented Vincenzo Pappano in the kitchen.
Sfuzzi fans should check out.
The veal chop served with fingerling potatoes. The tasty meat is soft and delicate and delightfully rich in that bath of demi-glace infused sauce.
…the sautéed broccolini which wraps the vegetable primeness of broccolini inside a sweet and crispy batter.
…the soup of the day (assuming our pancetta and Brussels sprout example was typical). The reason is that the consommé transparent broth is a sheep in wolf’s clothing, power-loaded with potency. Just the thing on cold winter nights.
…the caprese salad. Or, more observationally correct, the leaning tower of caprese salad. Impressive on the plate, and the mozzarella di bufala cheese impresses on the palate as well.
…the mocha ice-cream cake. Just the thing on cold winter nights/hot summer days/a quick lunch…you get the message.
…the wine list. Markups are only 2-2.5 times retail (lower than most in Dallas). Dominus Napanook $110 ($55 retail), Mount Veeder cabernet $90 ($40 retail), Pio Cesare Barbera di Asti $48 ($19 retail).
The scene is lively and noise levels are loud (80-86 dB on Decibel Meter) so inquire if the quieter side rooms are open when you reserve — if that matters.
