by Steven Doyle
In the world of appetizers it takes quite a bit to excite me. Beyond the typical fare you might see on the top side of the menu such as calamari, deviled eggs and a plethora of hackneyed charcuterie plates, I am always happy to set sites on a fantastic bit of foie torchon after having actually attempted to create my own in the past. I can appreciate the labor intensive subtleties of a great torchon and will go out of my way to order one when spotted.
That said, it is difficult to find an exemplary set of appetizers on a menu. This is not a blanket indictment of every menu found in Dallas, just a slight generalization. You see, it is often times I am not in for a full meal deal, but rather a glass of beer or wine and a few starters while perched at a restaurant’s bar. So you can imagine my happiness when I first gazed upon Jon Stevens’ menu at Stock and Barrel in the Bishop Arts District for the first time. There was a bit of elation, actually.
Grilled Globe Artichoke
Here you might enjoy Crushed Avocado Toasts with Spanish Chorizo, the wonderful Grilled Globe Artichokes served with Parmesan and Lemon Mayo. Or to point, and certainly one of my fetishes, the Lump Crab Fritters that is served with a house-conjured sweet and sour sauce.
The poppable crabby delights are light and airy, and quite addictive. Add this to my list of starter favorites in Dallas, and pass the sauce.
