Dangling below a beautiful Matisse at le Bilboquet, the latest entry in French cuisine in Dallas, you will find immaculate starched table cloths, doting waiters and plates of foie gras terrine, apple tarte tatin and this crazy good Cajun chicken dish.
The restaurant itself is a New York transplant which has been in service for nearly 30 years at its original location on the Upper East Side and has been labeled as the snobbiest restaurant in New York, if you can imagine that.
Recently we checked out the brunch menu, which was truly spectacular and unpretentious, a word not normally affiliated with the restaurant. The poached eggs on the plated Benedict stood like soldiers, bathed in a bright and silky Hollandaise and set onto a thick plank of delicious smoky ham. This was served with a side of frites and a light assortment of field greens, a splendid way to hack away at the previous evening’s revelry. That is why we do brunch in Dallas, correct?
Often we find that brunch is a perfect way to discover a restaurant, in that soft lingering afternoon refilling flutes of orange juice and sparkling wine. Casual conversations with spotty remembrances of the weekend, and frightful cringes of the coming week.
Relax a bit with le Bilboquet, and consider that Cajun chicken on the next visit. And as wondrous as it all sounds, you will not need to get a fast loan to dine at this upscale restaurant that serves without any hint of pretension.