Singing Praises of Off The Bone

by Steven Doyle

We often receive notes from readers dropping praises of their favorite BBQ haunts across the city where BBQ generally sleeps once the days brisket has been sold out at 1pm. However, for today, we bring you a spot that doesn’t sleep easily when there’s ribs to be smoked.        

Off the Bone makes our list of tops list for bbq as they smoke a top notch baby back rib. In a world that often uses a lesser quality rib; the baby back still stands at the fore front of quality. The meat comes from a younger hog (as opposed to a sow) making them more tender and flavorful. The baby backs are cut from the pork loin which has very little fat and are much leaner than St Louis or spare ribs.

Off the Bone is owned by Dwight and Rose Harvey who both spent in finance at Frito for 38 years and 40 years respectively. They are joined by their son, Steve, who we found in the kitchen on our most recent visit. It is a family operation with the elder Harvey overseeing the smoking operation and Rose baking prize winning desserts such as her cobblers, chocolate and lemon cake.

If you scan the walls of the tiny restaurant, which is located very near the Southside of Lamar, you will spot Dwight’s mentor, Chef Kent Rathbun. When the Harvey’s were looking to open the restaurant four years ago they looked to Kent for some sage advice. We are not sure what the chef told the Harvey’s, but whatever it was must have worked. The result is very good BBQ.

The ribs are the true stand outs at Off the Bone. The bark is crisp and flavorful with plenty of smoke. Each rib has a quick bite of tender meat that beckons another mouthful. While the brisket has a similar bark, the ribs compel.

The sides are equally noteworthy, especially the Cole slaw which is covered with copious amounts of real bacon bits.

We also wanted more of Rose’s chocolate cake: rich, creamy and moist with a bold chocolate flavor. This is something your mother would make; at least that is what son Steve can attest to.

Off the Bone
1734 South Lamar Street, Dallas
(214) 565-9551
 

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Filed under BBQ, beer, Crave, Dallas, Steven Doyle

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