by Steven Doyle
The American government hordes cheese. It’s an odd deal you may want to investigate, but there are actual stores of processed American cheese, not too unlike Velveeta, in giant government warehouses on the ready to distribute to disaster victims, food banks and welfare recipients. Other governments have been offered this cheese and refused. Ronald Reagan loved the program, with piles equivalent to two pounds per person. But what can be done with this cheese? Why not make queso?
Dating back to 1900 American cheese was whipped into a vat of goo, some say starting in San Antonio, all for the betterment of mankind. A form of Velveeta may be used, or perhaps a béchamel-based concoction may be created, either way, you will need chips, some jalapenos and a hearty appetite.
Today we point you the direction to some fine versions of queso in Dallas. It only seems natural, even if the cheese is not.
Ebar is one of our favorite Tex Mex spots currently in Dallas, and they serve a loaded queso with a load of guacamole, sour cream and seasoned beef for your dining pleasure.
The grand poo-bah of queso is without a doubt the Matt’s El Rancho Bob Armstrong entry into the book of legends. A version of this may also be found at Mattito’s as well as some spin-offs elsewhere. In my travels I often introduce the recipe to bars around the country who often shake a leg at the bowl of layered bowl of taco meat, queso, guacamole, sour cream, and pico de gallo. As I travel the United States I find the legend of Matt Armstrong proceeds me. I have also shared the idea with a few pubs across the nation to great applause.
Mexican Sugar in Plano offers a riff with toasted chiles and guacamole that is worth a spin with a side of margaritas.
The chili compuesto (kicked up queso) is ethereal at Chuy’s.
Bucky Moonshine’s in Deep Ellum, now known for their late-late night menu has a superb example of queso made with several cheeses and crawfish.
We love off menu items and Mi Cocina has a Amarillo Queso that is perky and doused with cumin.
HG Sply does vegan very well with their cashew-based queso that is good enough for this omnivore.