Every city needs a place where you can order hot pastrami, a bowl of matzo ball soup and a chicken-fried steak with cream gravy at the same table, and nobody blinks. In Dallas, that place is Cindi’s NY Deli.
Cindi’s calls itself one part New York neighborhood deli, one part 1950s coffee and pancake house and one part Southern mom-and-pop diner. That describes the menu, and it describes the woman behind it.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
The sign on Bryan Street doesn’t try very hard. No lemongrass, no lotus, no clever play on pho. It just says Vietnam, and it has said that since 1996.
Vietnam Restaurant sits at 4302 Bryan Street in Old East Dallas, a few blocks from the Fitzhugh corner that has become one of the more interesting eating intersections in town. It opened before Uptown filled in and before the revival east of downtown took hold. The building is older than the restaurant. So are some of the regulars.
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Dallas has a habit of chasing the newest restaurant in town. Meanwhile, some of the best cooking in the city happens year after year in places that rarely make the hot lists. This column is for those restaurants.
We are starting with Off the Bone Barbeque, a family-run Dallas barbecue joint in the Cedars that has been smoking ribs out of an old gas station since 2008.
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There is a category of restaurant that no amount of new openings can replace: the place that a family built from nothing, that has fed the same neighborhood through multiple recessions and a pandemic, that carries recipes nobody wrote down because they were never meant to leave the kitchen. Dallas and Fort Worth have more of these than most cities their size. They don’t advertise. They don’t do tasting menus. They mostly just keep showing up, which is the hardest thing in this business, and the thing worth honoring when you find it.
Dallas
Ojeda’s — 4617 Maple Avenue, Dallas
Ben Ojeda was a US Army cook whose food became so well-regarded during World War II that officers requested it by name. He spent years working Dallas restaurant kitchens after he came home, and in 1969 he and his wife Cecilia leased the Peter Pan Grill on Maple Avenue and renamed it Ojeda’s. A Channel 13 news reporter found them in 1971 — nine children working the floor, every recipe from family memory — and the line hasn’t really stopped since.
The signature puffed taco, a corn tortilla fried in lard until it balloons into something light and crispy and entirely its own thing, is one of the most specific dishes in Dallas and one of the hardest to find done right anywhere else. The weekday specials run $8.75 and are named after family members. Linda Ojeda Cashat still manages the Maple Avenue location. Open daily from 10:30 a.m. (214) 528-8383.
Kuby’s Sausage House — 6601 Snider Plaza, Dallas
The family traces the story back to 1728, when one of the elder Kubys was known for making venison wurst in Kaiserslautern, Germany. Karl Kuby brought the operation to Snider Plaza in 1961 — a European meat market and restaurant tucked into the Park Cities shopping district that has been an institution for sixty-five years without ever particularly trying to become one. The market side carries house-made sausages, imported German grocery items hard to find anywhere else in Dallas, and a wild game processing operation where hunters can bring in elk, antelope, or deer and leave with custom sausage and jerky made to family recipes.
The restaurant side runs a short menu of exactly what it should: wurst teller — a sausage plate with homemade sauerkraut, German potato salad, and red cabbage — Wiener Schnitzel à la Holstein with two eggs and country potatoes, and bratwurst that Food & Wine magazine called out when they named Kuby’s one of the best butcher shops in America. The room is old-world and unhurried in a way that takes genuine conviction to maintain in Snider Plaza in 2026. Open Monday through Saturday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., restaurant closes at 2:30 p.m. Closed Sunday. (214) 363-2231.
S&D Oyster Company — 2701 McKinney Avenue, Dallas
Herb and Mary Kay Story opened S&D in 1976 after Herb’s Navy career introduced them to Gulf Coast seafood they couldn’t find in Dallas. Mary Kay brought home recipes from duck-hunting trips in Louisiana. They opened S&D on McKinney Avenue and ran it for nearly fifty years. In 2023 the Bellomy brothers — Ryan, Sean, and Beau — acquired it, and the most telling detail about what they found when they walked in is this: head chef Santos Vasquez had been at S&D for 47 years. Sous chef Fortino Calzada the same. Night chef Luis Rios, 37 years. Server Pepe Bello and general manager Therese Washington both approaching 30. The Bellomys kept all of them. The gumbo recipe hasn’t changed. The Gulf oysters still come in fresh. And last August they opened Caché — a 35-seat New Orleans-inspired cocktail lounge hidden above the dining room, accessed through an elevator in the back — as the only real addition to a building that didn’t need much else. Open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., closed Sunday. (214) 880-0111.
Fort Worth
Chuy’s Mexican Restaurant — Multiple Fort Worth locations
Not the Austin chain. That’s the first thing to know. Artemia and Jesus “Chuy” Adame opened their Chuy’s on West Central Avenue in Fort Worth in March 1982 — the same year the Austin chain started, a coincidence that produced thirty years of explaining which Chuy’s was which. The Austin Chuy’s eventually sold to Darden Restaurants, the company that also owns Olive Garden. The Fort Worth Chuy’s stayed exactly what it always was: a family Tex-Mex restaurant with four locations, daily lunch specials under $10, fajita lunches under $13, and breakfast served until noon. “We’re the family-owned restaurant in Fort Worth,” Jesse Adame has said. That sentence now requires no qualifier. (817) 507-5445.
Pulido’s Kitchen & Cantina — 2900 Pulido Street, Fort Worth
The story starts in a railyard. Dionicia Pulido was cooking for her husband Pedro’s co-workers along the West Vickery Boulevard rail lines, and the food was good enough that the operation eventually turned into a restaurant, then into five restaurants, then into a Fort Worth institution that opened in 1966 and fed generations of the same families at the same tables. In 2023 the family announced they were closing all locations — a gut punch to Fort Worth — and then the Westland Restaurant Group partnered with the Pulidos to reopen. Same staff. Same recipes. The Cadillac Margarita, the enchiladas, the praline sopapillas. The regulars came back immediately. A year later, Pulido’s is celebrating the anniversary with a free praline sopapilla at every table through June 24. Open daily from 11 a.m. (Fort Worth flagship). (817) 924-8522.
Boopa’s Bagel Deli — 6513 N. Beach Street, Fort Worth
Holly Pils opened Boopa’s twenty-six years ago in north Fort Worth and has been making water bagels — boiled, not steamed, never frozen, never arriving on a truck — from scratch every morning since. Water bagels are a specific and uncompromising thing: the dough is boiled before it bakes, which gives it the chewy crust and dense interior that a bagel is supposed to have and that most Texas bagels never achieve. Boopa’s achieves it, at 5:30 in the morning, six days a week, in a strip center on North Beach Street that requires you to know it’s there before you can find it. The lox, the cream cheese spreads, the deli sandwiches built on those bagels — this is one of the most specific and unreplicable things in Fort Worth and almost nobody outside the neighborhood knows about it. Open Monday through Friday 5:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. (817) 232-4771.
The reason to go to these places is not just sentiment, though there is nothing wrong with sentiment. It’s that restaurants like these are the ones that don’t come back once they’re gone. The recipe walks out the door with the family. The neighborhood loses something it can’t name until it’s already missing. Dallas and Fort Worth have lost enough of them already. These six are still here.
Filed under Steven Doyle
A coin flip brought Gene Dunston to Dallas. His mother had scraped together enough money working in a country café in rural Alabama to get the family out and into a city with better prospects. She put it to a coin: heads was Dallas, tails was Miami. Heads came up, the family packed everything they had, and a 15-year-old boy arrived in North Texas in 1946 with no particular plan.
He washed dishes at the Topper hamburger stand after school and valeted cars downtown on weekends. The valet job is where he met the man he still calls the Jukebox Man — a cash-heavy operator who rented jukeboxes to bars and restaurants across the city and had money to lend. Gene was a good enough kid that the man loaned him enough to open his first restaurant, a place called the Silver Castle on Oak Lawn Avenue. That led to the Wheel-in Drive-In on Harry Hines Boulevard in 1955. Ten years after that, Gene installed an open-flame mesquite pit in the middle of the dining room, renamed the place Dunston’s Steakhouse, and the rest is the kind of Dallas history that doesn’t get written up enough.
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Located in Snider Plaza, Kuby’s Sausage House is a living echo of the old world, built on the shoulders of precision, tradition, and comfort. Founded by Karl Kuby in 1961, after emigrating from Kassel, Germany, the restaurant and meat market still run under family leadership today. Karl-Heinz Kuby, his son, maintains the ethos with quiet rigor. At Kuby’s, nothing is ornamental. The charm isn’t curated—it’s inherited.
The interior, dressed in warm woods and hushed tones, has resisted the temptation of reinvention. There are hand-painted murals, a deli case with serious gravity, and waitstaff who know your usual order before you sit down. It’s a cross-generational meeting point where German immigrants, Highland Park regulars, and curious first-timers convene for something deeply elemental: food that honors its roots.
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A part of Dallas since 1958, Mama’s Daughters’ Diner is an institution grounded in tradition and family. Today Mama’s Daughters’ Diner remains a family operation run by the daughters of founder Norma Lee Manis. After Manis’s death in 2013, ownership and daily operations continued under Laurie Bowers, Nancy Procaccini, and Vicki Gosdin, who each became associated with different locations across the Dallas–Fort Worth area.
The diners now also involve members of the next generation, keeping the business largely family-run while continuing the Southern comfort cooking style their mother built the brand around.
Generations of locals have come here not just to eat but to revisit a culinary heritage shaped by comfort, hospitality, and from-scratch Southern cooking.
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As crawfish season heats up across North Texas, Tasty Tails is once again reminding Dallas diners why its New Orleans–style boils have earned a loyal following. Now approaching its sixth year in Addison, the family-owned restaurant has remained a constant along Belt Line Road by staying true to what it does best: authentic Cajun cooking rooted in tradition. The menu reflects the dishes the owners grew up with—shrimp po’boys, boiled crawfish, Cajun chicken wings, and the ever-popular Mom’s gumbo.
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