The smartest State Fair days do not start at the gate. They start a few minutes away, across I-30 in the Mount Auburn neighborhood, with lunch at Kalachandji’s.
There is a logic to it. The next six hours are going to be fried, battered, dipped, sugared and served on a stick. A plate of dal, rice and fresh vegetables first is less about virtue than about pacing. It also happens to be one of the most peaceful rooms in the city.
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Oktoberfest is underway in Munich, a good excuse to point out that Dallas has had its own German kitchen for 65 years. It is in Snider Plaza, and it is called Kuby’s Sausage House.
By Dallas standards, 1961 is ancient. By the family’s standards, it is recent. In 1728, Friedrich Kuby opened a meat market in Kaiserslautern, Germany, and the recipes passed from father to son for generations. “The original one was bombed in ’44,” Karl Kuby Sr. has said. “It was wiped out.”
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The kouign-amann has been Sugar & Sage Bakery’s calling card since the mother-daughter team of Alison and Ashley Weinstein opened on Lovers Lane in 2023. Now it is doing double duty as a sandwich.
The Cristo Amann is the bakery’s take on a Monte Cristo, and it started the way good ideas in a kitchen usually do, with everyone bringing something to the table. Executive chef Jill Bates, who led pastry at Fearing’s at the Ritz-Carlton before joining the Weinsteins, says it came out of a collaboration party where the whole team pitched ideas. “We made sandwiches, brought sammies and ideas,” she said. From there she kept working on it and sampling it for guests until it was ready.
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Start with the pie case at Judy’s Cafe. Judy bakes them every day, and on a good morning the case holds coconut cream, chocolate cream and cherry, with cakes and cobblers filling in around them. If you want a whole one, call a day or two ahead. They go.
Judy’s has been on West Campbell Road in Garland since 2014, a family-run diner that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu is where it pulls away from the pack.
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Across Piazza Carignano in Turin, the brick facade of Palazzo Carignano ripples like a curtain in a breeze. The first Parliament of a unified Italy met behind those walls. Directly across the square sits Del Cambio, which opened its doors on October 5, 1757, and has been feeding the city ever since.
Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, the statesman who did more than anyone to stitch Italy together, was a regular here, seated with a view of the Parliament across the way. The Risorgimento room has been carefully restored and still carries its 19th-century bearing, and the original parquet creaks under every step.
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The State Fair of Texas opens Friday, September 25, and runs 24 days through Sunday, October 18, at Fair Park. This is the fair’s 140th year, and the theme is “Stars, Stripes, and Howdies.” Gates open at 10 a.m. daily, closing at 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, with last entry at 9.
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You buy 2 tubs of the same ice cream. You open the first one, and it’s exactly what you expected – rich, creamy goodness. Then you open the other one, and it’s like a Temu version of the first one. Grainy, icy, stiff, and just not good.
What happened there?
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Every year around this time, something starts happening to people who grew up in Dallas. They smell a deep fryer that isn’t there yet, or they catch themselves thinking about mustard, and they realize the State Fair is close. A lot of that feeling traces back to one family and one stick of fried dough at Fletcher’s, and the Fair opens next Friday, September 25, so this is as good a week as any to tell the whole story.
It starts in 1938, with two brothers who weren’t cooks at all. Neil and Carl Fletcher were vaudeville performers, sixth-generation showmen who’d spent years touring with a family act called the Madcap Players and performing at Fair Park itself in a show called “The Drunkard.” As that career wound down, fair officials offered them a food booth. Neil later told the Dallas Morning News how the idea came together: “We said, ‘Sure.’ Then, over a bottle of bourbon, we tried to figure out what we could sell there.”
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