North Texas has been eating chiles en nogada for years now. Kitchens here have run it every September for the better part of a decade, and Fort Worth has one restaurant that treats it as an annual festival rather than a special. What still gets lost is why it shows up when it does and disappears when it does, which turns out to be the most interesting thing about it.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
The interesting bottle at this dinner isn’t the one everybody will talk about on the way out.
JW Steakhouse, inside the JW Marriott in the Arts District, is running a one-night Macallan pairing Thursday, September 24 at 7 p.m. Five courses, the Core Collection at 12, 15 and 18, a pour of the First Light, and a closing dram of the 25. It’s $195 a head with valet, 21 and up, seats limited, reservations through OpenTable. The menu hasn’t been released.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
Another Austin concept is coming up I-35, and this one is at least honest about wanting to be a party.
Guest House opens in October at 1900 Cedar Springs Rd. in Uptown, the fourth location for a brand that started in Austin in the spring of 2024 and has since put rooms in Las Vegas and Scottsdale. Aspen is next. The Dallas announcement went out this morning.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
Eduardo Osorio is taking over the food at all of it.
The Village Dallas named him culinary director this morning, which puts him over Meridian, Over Under, Village Beach Club, Anise and Buzz & Bustle, plus whatever the property opens next. He stays on as executive chef at Meridian, which is the job he already had and the one that made the case for this one.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
The food comes out wrapped in a banana leaf, folded shut, hot enough that you feel it through your fingers when you pick it up. Nobody opens it for you.
Peel it back and you catch a face full of steam. Coconut, chili, and something green underneath that you won’t be able to place.
That’s nasi bungkus. If you eat one good new thing this month, make it this.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
The Canadians have landed on Maple Avenue, and the menu is more interesting than the announcement was.
JOEY Maple occupies 2508 Maple Ave., next door to the Old Warsaw, and the opening date depends on which page of the company’s own site you read. The location page says September 6. The hiring listings say the restaurant opens to the public on September 10. Either way the doors are open now or open Thursday, so call before you drive over.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
By Miles Archer Pictures by Joey Stewart
A new Indian restaurant has opened on Forest Lane, and the couple behind it may be familiar to longtime Dallas diners. Golden Leaf Bar & Grill recently opened at 8989 Forest Lane, from Sumathi and Ramesh Sundaram, the husband-and-wife team who opened the original Shivas Bar & Grill on Lower Greenville in 2014.
At Shivas, Sumathi was the chef and ran the kitchen while Ramesh handled the front of the house. Before coming to Dallas, the couple operated two restaurants in Lexington, Kentucky, Bombay Bar & Grill and Banana Leaf. They also spent about a decade living in Singapore before making their way to Dallas.
Continue readingFiled under Joey Stewart
Abel Gonzales Jr. is East Dallas, and not in the way people say that about a neighborhood they moved to. Born in Dallas, raised on the east side, and never left. Fair Park sat close enough that the State Fair of Texas was not an annual outing so much as a season the family lived through together, first with his grandparents and parents, every year without a skip.
His father ran a restaurant, which in practice meant a man who worked constantly and rarely stopped for anything. The fair was the exception. That combination, a kitchen at home and a fairground down the road, is most of the explanation for how the rest of this went.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
