Ask the right people in Dallas where to go for a genuinely special dinner and eventually someone mentions The Old Warsaw. They say it quietly, the way people mention things they half-want to keep to themselves. It has been at 2512 Maple Avenue in Uptown since 1948 — 77 years, same French Continental menu, same candlelit room, same pianist — and it remains one of the least-known great restaurants in a city that somehow keeps missing it.
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