Hui Lau Shan started in the 1960s as an herbal tea stall in Yuen Long, out in Hong Kong’s New Territories, selling turtle jelly to people who believed in its medicinal powers. Nobody was thinking about mangoes. That came thirty years later, when the founder’s grandson put mango, pomelo, and sago pearls in a bowl together, and Hong Kong lost its collective mind. The chain grew to hundreds of shops. Anthony Bourdain ate there on a layover. At its peak, the company was going through a thousand tons of carabao mangoes a year.
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