Tag Archives: Travel; Writing

Stowe, Vermont: A Texan’s Guide to New England’s Postcard Ski Town

The first thing you notice coming into Stowe is the church. A tall white spire stands over Main Street, and on a clear day Mount Mansfield, the highest peak in Vermont, fills the sky beyond it like somebody arranged the scene for a calendar. Locals have seen that view about a million times. Visitors still pull over to photograph it.

Stowe has been selling that picture for a long time, and it has gotten very good at it. It is a real town with a real ski mountain, a 19th-century village, a family from The Sound of Music and one of the most hunted-down beers in America. It is also expensive, busy in high season and closed for business in more places than you would expect during the shoulder months. Go in knowing both halves, and it is a wonderful place to spend a few days.

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Everything You Need to Know Before You Go to Newport, Rhode Island

There’s a moment on the Cliff Walk — maybe twenty minutes in, when the path narrows and the Atlantic opens up on your right and the back lawns of the Vanderbilt mansions stretch out on your left — when Newport stops being a place you’re visiting and becomes something you’re trying to understand. The scale of it doesn’t make sense at first. These were called cottages. The Breakers, Cornelius Vanderbilt II’s 70-room Italian Renaissance palazzo, built in 1895 with hydraulic elevators, hot and cold seawater taps in every bathroom, and a Great Hall that rises two stories under a painted ceiling — that was his summer cottage. He used it for six weeks a year.

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