by Andrew Chalk
The Tuna Crudo at C’viche on thriving Lower Greenville is an early candidate for “Dish Of The Year” honors. Succulent marinated sinews of tuna are topped with slices of ginger for a decidedly Japanese expression, except that a shot of chili oil in the marinade charges it with a piquancy that decidedly southwestern.
Chef Jonathan Pauley isn’t a one-trick pony. The Scallop C’viche (this is certainly the most apostrophied restaurant in town) elevates the familiar marine mollusc, soaking it in lime juice for just two minutes to preserve its marine character.
Scallop C’viche with grapefruit, habanero, basil, sweet peas and red onion
I have considered Stephan Pyles and Mesa the go-to places for ceviche, but they may be facing a run for their money.
Chef Jonathan Pauley brings an attitude to ceviche at C’viche