In the wide-open deserts of West Texas, where sunbaked plains meet endless skies, a culinary tradition quietly took shape. Tex-Mex cuisine, the bold and comforting fusion of Mexican and Texan flavors, traces its roots to the small town of Marfa. At the center of this evolution stood the Old Borunda Cafe, a family-run restaurant that quietly shaped a cuisine now beloved across the state and beyond.
The Old Borunda Cafe opened in 1887, founded by Mexican immigrants Tulia Gutierrez Borunda and her brother Cipriano. Known as “Tulia’s,” the café served hearty, ranch-inspired meals to locals and travelers alike. In 1910, Cipriano married Carolina Poloma Borunda, who took over the restaurant and renamed it the Old Borunda Cafe. Carolina brought vision and skill to the kitchen, preserving her Mexican heritage while adapting to the tastes of a growing Texan clientele.
Carolina’s kitchen was a place of both tradition and innovation. She perfected dishes like enchiladas, tamales, and chiles rellenos, balancing authentic Mexican flavors with Texan ingredients. Among her creations, the Enchiladas Montadas became legendary: flat tortillas dipped in chile sauce, layered with cheese and onions, and crowned with a fried egg. She also introduced green chile sauce over Frito corn chips, a precursor to modern nachos, and hearty dishes like Chile Colorado con Puerco.
Marfa’s quiet charm drew Hollywood in the 1950s during the filming of Giant. Stars like James Dean, Rock Hudson, and Elizabeth Taylor dined at the Old Borunda, with Carolina ensuring their visits remained private. The café became a crossroads of culture, blending local tradition with the glamour of cinema.
By its centennial in 1987, the Old Borunda Cafe had cemented its place in Tex-Mex history. Though it eventually closed in the late 1980s, Carolina’s grandson Pancho Borunda carried on her recipes at the Borunda Bar and Grill, preserving the flavors and traditions she pioneered.
Tex-Mex today is everywhere, but it began in Marfa, where Carolina Borunda fused Mexican heritage with Texan innovation. The Old Borunda Cafe reminds us that cuisine tells stories—of families, communities, and cultural connections—and that history can be as flavorful as the food we savor.
