Saddle Up for the Duke: Chicken Fried Steak at Bandera’s 105-Year-Old OST

The saddles at the counter are real. Somebody wore that leather smooth a long time before you sat down, and the stools at the Old Spanish Trail in Bandera have been holding up ranch hands, bikers, dude ranch guests and road-trippers for the better part of a century. Order the chicken fried steak. Everybody does.

Locals just call it the OST. It opened in 1921 on Main Street, in a building that went up in the 1870s as a general store and later spent the 1930s and ’40s as a dance hall. The name comes from the Old Spanish Trail highway, an early coast-to-coast route meant to run from St. Augustine, Florida, to San Diego, with a stretch that carried motorists through the Hill Country. Interstate 10 eventually took the traffic. The restaurant stayed put, and today it calls itself the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Bandera County. You’ll also hear it described as the second oldest in Texas.

For 47 years, the OST belonged to Gwen Janes. In 2025 she sold it to Frank and Karen Hicks and Diana Walters, who already ran The First National Ice Haus next door in the old First National Bank of Bandera building. The new owners made it clear early on that the menu wasn’t going anywhere. They kept their word. Gwen’s name is still printed over the dessert list.

Now, about that steak. The Chicken Fried Steak is hand-breaded and comes in three sizes, small, medium and a large one the menu calls The Duke, a nod to John Wayne, who has an entire dining room devoted to him at the back of the building. Fresh cream gravy goes over the top. It lands with your choice of fries, a baked potato or mashed potatoes, a biscuit or Texas toast, and either a cup of homemade soup or a trip to the salad bar, which happens to be set inside a covered wagon. The kitchen cooks every order from scratch as it comes in, and the menu says so plainly, with a polite request for patience. Give it the time.

Breakfast is where a lot of people fall for this place, and it’s served all day. The Cowboy Breakfast puts that same chicken fried steak and cream gravy next to two eggs, a biscuit or toast, and hash browns, grits or refried beans. If you’d rather start the morning with beef that hasn’t seen a fryer, the Chuck Wagon Breakfast swaps in an 8-ounce ribeye. The Wrangler Breakfast brings a smoked, grilled pork chop with eggs.

The griddle side of the menu runs deep. The pancakes and Belgian Waffles are billed as house famous, and there’s a Chicken & Belgian Waffle topped with crispy tenders. Omelets are built from three eggs, and the Bandera Omelet leans into the town’s appetite with ground beef, jalapeños, onions, chili and cheese. Pancha’s Migas come with flour tortillas and refried beans, breakfast tacos can be filled with chorizo or potato, and biscuits come smothered in sausage gravy for anyone who needs a second gravy before noon.

Dinner deserves just as much attention, and it’s the meal a lot of day-trippers miss. Evening specials start at 4 p.m., with pork chops and grilled cabbage on Mondays and fried chicken with mashed potatoes on Thursdays. The steak section offers a hand-cut Ribeye in 8 or 12 ounces, with the option to add three jumbo Gulf shrimp. The Ranch House Hamburger Steak arrives under grilled onions, mushrooms, bell peppers and melted white cheese, and the Pepper Steak gets brown gravy, cheese and jalapeños. Catfish comes fried or grilled, as a half or whole fillet, and the Combo Platter pairs it with jumbo shrimp. There’s a Chicken Fried Chicken for anyone in the party who doesn’t eat beef.

The Tex-Mex is made in house and draws its own crowd. Enchiladas come topped with fresh beef chili and onions, the way small-town Texas cafes have done them for generations. Arkey’s Special sets a fried egg and jalapeños on top of a pair of enchiladas, and it shares a name with the honky-tonk legend who runs the saloon across the street. The Mexican Supper is written up on the menu for the hearty cowboy appetite, and it means it. Sizzling fajita platters, chile rellenos and chalupas round things out.

Burgers are hand-pattied, and the names fit the room. The Gunslinger carries chili, cheddar and jalapeños. The Western Burger comes stacked with bacon, barbecue sauce and hand-battered onion rings. The Duke Hamburger is served open-faced. A long list of sandwiches, salads and a kids’ menu called the Kiddie Corral cover everyone else at the table.

Save room. The dessert case is a tour of the Texas church potluck, with Buttermilk Pie, a Blueberry Buttermilk Pie, meringue pies in chocolate, coconut and lemon, Southern pecan, and peach or blackberry Cobbler. Whole pies can be ordered ahead, which is worth knowing if you plan to drive one back up I-35.

The OST doesn’t serve alcohol, but you’re welcome to bring your own, and setups are available. Tables are long and made of cypress, meant for sharing, and the John Wayne Room sits where a horse corral used to be. Every so often you’ll still see a horse tied up out front.

Bandera itself is worth a full afternoon. The town sits on the Medina River about 50 miles northwest of San Antonio, a little over five hours from Dallas, and it has called itself the Cowboy Capital of the World for decades. Cattle drives on the Great Western Trail pushed north out of here in the late 1800s, and the dude ranches that followed still surround the town. On many Saturdays there are gunfight reenactments on Main Street. When the sun goes down, walk across the street to Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar, a basement honky-tonk that has been pouring beer and booking country bands since the 1940s. The Bandera County Convention and Visitors Bureau keeps a current calendar of rodeos, festivals and events.

The OST is at 311 Main Street in Bandera, 830-796-3836. It opens at 7 a.m. every day and stays open until 8 p.m. Sunday, Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. On Tuesday and Wednesday it closes at 2 p.m., so plan dinner for another night. The full menu is posted on the OST website, and to-go orders are welcome.

A huge Texas list of CFS

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Leave a Reply