Most people come up Grant Avenue. That’s the Chinatown tourists know — painted lanterns, souvenir shops, roast duck hanging in windows. Brandon Jew moved the entrance to his restaurant around the corner before he ever opened it, tucking the door into Waverly Place, a narrow alley that runs parallel to Grant and feels like a completely different city. Quieter. More lived in. The street where old men sit outside in folding chairs and the shops are for people who actually live here, not people passing through. You have to mean it a little to find Mister Jiu’s. That was the idea.
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