First Look: Clark Food & Wine Company

by Steven Doyle

What happens when you combine a five star chef with one of the funky new spaces on lower Greenville? The child would definitely be called Clark Food and Wine Company, and the chef giving birth would certainly be Randall Warder. Chef Warder has an auspicious resume, working with the Dean Fearing regime at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek as executive sous chef for nine years, and more recently as chief concept officer at Romano’s Macaroni Grill.

The cuisine at Clark is more tapas-style, but hearty and more giving than any shared menu in the city. In addition to the shared plates, you will find a great selection of flatbreads, artisan sandwiches and smoked meats. This is definitely how we are enjoying our meals these days. It is a far more interesting date to enjoy a smattering of foods, chef-driven cocktails and a well appointed wine and beer menu with friends and family.

Roasted bone marrow, ancho, truffle salt, crostini

“I want Clark to be a restaurant where people can come in and grab a great sandwich or salad at lunch and be in and out in 30-45 minutes. And then come back in the evening have the experiential dining element. Sharing a bunch of great foods with great flavors. Sipping cool cocktails, wine or beer. No pretense, but edgy food and drinks that are approachable,” explained Warder.

This was the exact feel we experienced at our most recent visit to Clark. The restaurant had a packed patio for a Tuesday evening with diners who were mostly from the immediate neighborhood. And this is exactly what Warder was hoping for when he concepted his new restaurant.

“I want people to be here all the time, not once a month. A neighborhood style restaurant for all of Dallas. I am hoping that through food style and service style that people will put down there phones and enjoy the experience and the people they are dining.”

Smoked catfish dip, fried capers

Brisket meatballs, balsamic glaze, blue cheese

We were curious about the name, and Warder was happy to help us with that bit of information.

“Clark was my mother’s maiden name. I was fortunate to have parents that exposed me to great restaurant experiences at a young age. My mother was always experimenting with new dishes and loved to cook. We all ate well. I credit her to a large extent (or blame depending how the day is going!) for me choosing the restaurant biz for a career. And the name is so American and strong. Just seemed to work for a neighborhood like lower Greenville,” said Warder.

It is obvious that Warder is enjoying his new post as chef-owner, and he has assembled like-minded employees including one particular amazing server.

Texas Chopper is chockful of smoked brisket, white cheddar, lettuce, cabbage, roasted corn, avocado, black beans, radish, green goddess dressing jalapeno and more

Gulf crab roll served on a beautiful butter roll

The BTC: a brick oven flatbread layered with smoked bacon, avocado, roasted tomatoes and more

Clark Food and Wine will be open for luncheon service starting tomorrow (October 23rd). But that is not the end of the story. He is working on another build out next door with a ceviche restaurant called C’Viche Tequila Bar. This will keep Warder on the run between the two restaurants, but we feel confident he will be up for the task. Here the ceviche will be offered traditionally in the style of Peruvian, Mexican, Asian and Tropical, but will also be available in salads, tacos and other culinary canvasses. Both of his restaurants will give a deeper definition to the new super charged neighborhood.

You will find several choices of smoked meats that rival the best of our city’s BBQ haunts, including this very moist half chicken.