Brunches in Dallas are almost ritualistic, with copious amount of eggs served unceremoniously atop English muffins and drowned in a bright yellow hollandaise. Do not forget the requisite pitcher of mimosas that set off even the dullest Sunday Funday. But Clark Food and Wine has taken a different look at how a brunch should be served. You remember Clark, which opened its doors just months ago on the lucky side of Lowest Greenville Avenue and is owned by chef Randall Warder, the former exec sous at the Mansion during the Fearing era. This is a pretty serious restaurant that is easy on the pocketbook, but serves up huge flavors with many items touched by the house pizza oven or smoker.
The brunch begged to be explored, and we popped by to check out a few of the fun items that await your approval, including one very special set of smokey chicken enchiladas mounted with a pair of eggs cooked off in the aforementioned pizza oven. What a mouthful of delicious flavors that include smoked chicken, peppers, tomatillo salsa, white cheddar, black beans and those sunny side up eggs cooked to a masterful jiggly perfection. Pair this up with a serve your self Bloody Mary bar with many housemade pickled items (try the shrimp topping) and several house smoked tomato juices. Some spicy, some not. The bartender, who simply goes by the name “Jones” is particularly sweet, and she recommends using a whiskey instead of the more recognized vodka for the Bloody Mary. Make that a Bloody Merry.
Also try the Citrus Toast that is griddled French bread, vanilla custard, Texas citrus and basil syrup. This makes a good Sunday afternoon dessert to share with the entire table, unless you are not the sharing type then you might want to double up on your ordering.
There are several more egg dishes if you are in that mindset for brunch. You might wish to order a ham and egg sandwich which is not like any other you may have sampled. Imagine scrambled eggs, Capicola, sharp cheddar, and a roasted jalapeño sauce, loaded up on their house bun. That will poke you in the eye after a night of revelry.
You can still order a whole host of smoke meats, including one of our very favorite chickens in the Dallas area, smoked to a juicy perfection. Or how about a killer burger. It doesn’t actually kill anything except your hunger, and need for a good beefy mouthful of deliciousness.
Did we mention the smoked shrimp an grits? This chef Warder likes a nice manly meal, and makes great use of his smoker, but there are plenty of other items that carry more delicate flavors if that is what you seek. The crab roll we extol so well is a great example. Or a simple dish of asparagus with a poached egg makes for a light and tasty start to your day.