by Steven Doyle
Sitting in the sub shop for several hours chatting with owner Andrew Kelley in between the many customers who filed in yesterday I was able to glean that this place wasn’t necessarily about a truly good sandwich. True, when chef Kelley took over the shop several months ago after it had sat idle for two years he gave the building a facelift ala sledgehammer and ingenuity, but he also took a hard cheffy look at the ingredients it took to build a better sandwich. But many see New York Sub as a comfortable neighborhood hangout, and a place to meet.
Having spent many days at New York Sub as a neighborhood kid Andrew Kelley seized the opportunity one night before Thanksgiving last year when he passed by the location at 3411 Asbury, located directly across from SMU off Hillcrest. Kelley had instant visions of owning the shop and creating his own versions of the sandwiches from his childhood.
Kelley graduated from Kendall College of Culinary Arts in Chicago and has since worked at a series of great restaurants in the Chicago area including those found at the W Lakeshore, Ritz-Carlton, and the Fairmont in Chicago before moving back and finding homes at several restaurants in Dallas including a gig at Southern Methodist University.
This resume of Kelley’s is what uniquely qualified him to re-open the 40-year-old sub shop and give it his own special makeover which includes purchasing artisan bread from Village Baking Company, a selection of top-end meats that are hand-sliced to order, and then given the treatment of a variety of hand-made sauces. Kelley even makes his own pickles he serves with each sandwich. And do not forget the homemade meatballs and soups that change daily.
Add to this a series of unique sodas from around the country, and very soon a list of beers to complete the full update of an age-old sub shop that is beloved by its patrons. All this while his wife just had their first child.
Look for a beer garden to be added to the shop soon, as their beer license is weeks away from approval. A smart addition for a man who owns a sub shop across from a University.
Pro tip: Although the turkey and cheese is the most popular, the hot pastrami is a deal breaker. Or meatball sub. Or….