by Steven Doyle
Mercat Bistro located in the Saint Ann courtyard in Uptown, opened for breakfast, lunch, and dinner last week and we finally had a chance to stop in to check out the menu recently. The name “Mercat,” the Catalan word for market, gives a slight foreshadowing of what diners might expect in the cozy, if not romantic setting.
The wait staff is extremely doting, refilling water and keeping a watchful eye on bread and wine levels. The place settings are made up of a variety of charming and nearly matching floral patterns that may remind you of an evening at your grandmother’s, if your grandmother was into European fine dining. The entire experience is a bit eccentric and vintage.
The day at Mercat starts off early morning with croissants, pastries coffee and other breakfast fare. Omelets are served all day, and the evening promises small plates and sturdier entrees. The list of starters seemed perfectly sufficient for any diner on a warm Dallas evening. Our eye was quickly drawn to Frisee Aux Lardon, veal sweetbreads, poached egg. Just remember that lardon is code word for bacon which can make any dish happy, but the sweetbreads were large, moist and bountiful making this a beautiful salad which could be enjoyed as a main course.
We also enjoyed the charcuterie board which was sufficient enough for at least four people, if not more. We would love to have seen cheese as an addition, but you can order burrata or even the beautiful house-made ricotta. Last night we spied noted cheesemaker Paula Lambert enjoying the ricotta.
For our entrees we enjoyed the trout, which is new to the menu. This was a plump filet that was pan sizzled to a moist perfection served with a side of salad greens. This was our favorite of all our dishes.
A heartier beef selection was a toss-up between the hangar steak or the braised short rib served with celery root and green apple. The short rib won out and was a perfect selection.
We finished our meal with the ever-so light and airy Zeppole which are Italian fried doughnuts served with a house jam. You may also choose from a selection of dessert shooters available by themselves or served in a flight for an extra sweet kiss goodnight.
Mercat is a perfect out of the way dining option in town that is free of hustle and haranguing diners nose-pressed and bothered. It is an Old World step back to a time I would much rather dine in any day of the week.
Mercat Bistro | 2501 N. Harwood, Dallas | 214.953.0917
