A traditional Rioja dinner usually calls to mind roast lamb, Manchego and Ibérico ham. The menu Catch Dallas built for its recent wine dinner with La Rioja Alta took a different approach, pairing one of Spain’s most classic producers, La Rioja Alta, with hamachi crudo, miso-glazed sea bass and a center-cut filet. The evening made a persuasive case that long-aged Rioja is far more versatile at the table than its reputation suggests.
Few wineries are better suited to make that case. As the winery recounts in its official history, La Rioja Alta was founded on July 10, 1890, by five families from Rioja and the Basque Country, in the Barrio de la Estación in Haro, the railway district where many of the region’s historic bodegas established themselves. The timing was significant. Phylloxera had devastated the vineyards of Bordeaux, French merchants were seeking new sources of fine wine, and the founders engaged a French winemaker to produce Rioja of comparable quality. More than 135 years later, descendants of those families remain the principal shareholders. Drinks International has ranked it fourth among the world’s most admired wine brands, and Rioja’s official regulatory council describes it as a symbol of Rioja wine.
The winery’s reputation rests on an unwavering commitment to traditional methods. As detailed on the winery’s website, La Rioja Alta operates its own cooperage in Haro, producing roughly 30,000 barrels from American oak sourced in Ohio and Kentucky and seasoned outdoors for two years. Every six months, each barrel is racked by hand by candlelight, allowing the cellar team to separate the wine from its sediment without aggressive filtration. Wines are released only when the winery judges them ready to drink.
Rioja’s aging classifications provide useful context. Under the region’s regulations, a Crianza must age at least two years, including one in barrel. A Reserva requires three years, with at least one in barrel, and a Gran Reserva requires five years, with at least two in barrel. La Rioja Alta consistently exceeds those minimums.
The portfolio reflects the company’s history. Viña Alberdi, Viña Arana and Viña Ardanza each bear the name of a founding family. Viña Alberdi, the house’s introduction to its style, is made entirely from Tempranillo and aged two years in the winery’s own oak. Viña Arana, introduced in 1974, has been bottled as a Gran Reserva since the 2012 vintage. Viña Ardanza, the winery’s best-known label, blends roughly 80 percent Tempranillo from Fuenmayor and Cenicero with 20 percent Garnacha from the La Pedriza vineyard in Tudelilla, in the warmer eastern part of the region. The two varieties are aged separately for close to three years before blending.
At the top of the range are the two numbered Gran Reservas. Gran Reserva 904 commemorates 1904, when co-founder Alfredo Ardanza merged his own winery with the company. The current release is 90 percent Tempranillo and 10 percent Graciano, aged four years in barrel. Gran Reserva 890 honors the founding year. It spends six years in oak, is racked by hand ten times and is produced only in exceptional vintages. Both rank among the most sought-after wines in Spain. The 2005 vintage of Gran Reserva 890 placed fourth on Wine Spectator’s list of the world’s best wines in 2018.
Catch presented the dinner family style, with each course served for the table.
The first course featured the Vegetable King Roll, made with king oyster mushroom, avocado and spicy miso, alongside a Hamachi Watermelon Crudo with watermelon ponzu and a coconut-sesame emulsion. Red wine is generally avoided with raw fish, but traditional Rioja is an exception worth noting. Extended barrel aging softens the tannins that typically clash with seafood, while the wine retains its acidity. The earthy character of the king oyster mushroom is a natural match for aged Tempranillo.
The second course continued in a similar vein. The Ahi Tuna Pizza layers raw tuna, avocado aioli and garlic ponzu over a thin, crisp base, and the Crispy Shrimp arrives with spicy mayo and tobiko, the small, crunchy roe of the flying fish. Dishes with this level of richness and heat are well served by a younger, fruit-forward Rioja such as Viña Alberdi.
The entrées reflected both sides of the Catch menu. The Miso Glazed Sea Bass was served with a miso-vin blanc, a classic French white wine butter sauce enriched with miso, and charred petite bok choy. This is where the pairing becomes most compelling. As Tempranillo ages, it develops savory notes of dried cherry, leather and earth, and miso shares that same savory depth. The Center-Cut Filet, an 8-ounce cut from Dakota City, Nebraska, came with truffle butter on the side, a classic partner for a mature Gran Reserva.
Sides included Simple Mashed Potatoes with roasted garlic and Grilled Asparagus with citrus vinaigrette.
For dessert, the “Hit Me” Chocolate Cake, a Catch signature, combines brownie and devil’s food cake with what the menu describes as a liquid “Klondike,” served with dulce de leche ice cream. The Warm Ricotta Donuts were accompanied by cream cheese frosting and three sauces: raspberry lime, milk chocolate and salted caramel.
For readers interested in exploring the pairing at home, Viña Ardanza is the logical starting point. It is widely available in Dallas, reasonably priced for a wine of its pedigree and an excellent introduction to the house style. It pairs well with miso-glazed fish or a filet finished with truffle butter. For a special occasion, Gran Reserva 904 is well worth seeking out. Travelers headed to Spain can also book a tour and tasting at the winery in Haro.
Catch Dallas is located at 3005 Maple Ave. in Uptown’s Maple Terrace. For reservations and information on upcoming wine dinners, call 214-983-1440 or visit the Catch Dallas website.
