In my college days I once had to read a book called “Imperialism, the Highest Stage of Capitalism” by this man named Lenin who had the seriously trimmed beard and bald head of a sommelier in a high-priced steak house. To co-opt his phrase for a more plausible contention, Brunello di Montalcino is the highest stage of the marvelous but capricious Sangiovese grape. Continue reading