The Unsettling Truth About Go Texan Wine

GO-Anything--229x300by Andrew Chalk

Some weeks ago I wrote about a wine carrying the familiar “Go Texan” mark of the Texas Department of Agriculture (TDA) that was made mainly (85%, as it happened) of non-Texas grapes. In the course of researching that story, I asked the TDA the minimum proportion of Texas grapes required in a wine carrying the Go Texan mark. They did not know the exact rule so I submitted a Freedom of Information Request for this information. Recently, they came back to me with the definitive answer: the minimum proportion of Texas grapes in a Go Texan wine is…Zero percent. In other words, you can put Go Texan on wine with grapes from anywhere.

This is not what I expected on the day that I first saw a wine with the Go Texan mark. Nor is it what the vast majority of consumers think Go Texan means based on the ones I have asked the question to (which is pretty much everyone that I have met over the last few weeks). The most common answer I got was that Go Texan meant 100% grapes. Seventy-five percent was another popular answer. Both numbers have a reasonable basis. One hundred percent is what common sense tells us. Seventy five percent is an existing federal standard for denominating a wine’s origin. The only people who answered zero percent were people who knew my predilection for asking trick questions.    

The important thing to come out of this is that Go Texan (when applied to wine) is totally at odds with consumer expectations. I think the current rule is downright misleading. As I wrote, my instinctive reaction was to petition the TDA to simply make the Go Texan mark inapplicable to wine. Doing so would remove something that appears to help consumers make informed buying decisions by providing them with information but in actual fact misleads them.

Then I had a better idea: Instead of abolishing the Go Texan mark on wine, change the TDA rule to require that a wine bearing the mark be made from 100 percent Texas grapes. For the first time, Go Texan, would mean 100% Texan.

This change would, most importantly, make the meaning of Go Texan consistent with consumer expectations. However, it would also have a hugely beneficial secondary effect (one that I would expect other wine producing states to copy). It would provide Texas winemakers with a single, common, front-label method of indicating to consumers when their wines were made from 100% Texas fruit. That is a huge step forward for winemakers and consumers. It puts Texas on a par with the rigor in European, South American and Australian wine labeling where a single, front-label indicator exists to declare that all of a wine comes from one area. In France, the system is called Appellation Contrôlée, in Italy DOCG, etc. Not all areas of the world have such a system and at the moment the United States is one of those that does not. Under federal rules, the place of origin on the front label usually only guarantees that 75% of the grapes come from the place named on the front label. That system does have other advantages and I am not suggesting changing it. What I am proposing is the addition of the Go Texan mark as a kind of ‘gold ring’ of authenticity. At the moment, the consumer has to read every individual back label and work through the non-standard wording to determine which wines on a store shelf are made from 100% Texas grapes.

Participating in Go Texan is, and would remain, voluntary. But I expect that more wineries would want to pay the membership fee if the mark meant 100% Texas grapes.

Given this situation, I worked on a modified rule defining the use of the Go Texan mark on wine. With the generous pro bona help of a Texas attorney, the rule proposal was put into the legal form required by the state. The change will be delivered to the state today. The next step, per the Texas Administrative Code is  “Within 60 days after the receipt of a petition for the adoption of a rule, the department shall either deny the petition in writing, stating its reasons for the denial, or initiate rule making proceedings in accordance with the Act, Subchapter B.” I will publish updates here as I have them. Stay tuned.


Two questions that readers asked, and that deserve responses, were as follows:

“What about coffee. I saw the Go Texan mark on coffee and it doesn’t come from Texas?”

Since Texas doesn’t grow any coffee there is no consumer confusion about the origins of the coffee. I don’t know what gets coffee a Go Texan mark (maybe the roasting technique) but I am not proposing this change for anything other than wine made from grapes.

“What about beer? Craft brewers don’t get their raw ingredients from Texas, why should winemakers”

The raw ingredients are different. With beer, the brewmaster is all powerful. If the brewmaster makes, for example, a wheat beer the source of the wheat doesn’t matter, only it’s type and grade. That is why traders on the Chicago Mercantile Exchange trade millions of dollars in wheat, knowing the type and grade (e.g. “#2 Soft Red Winter”), but not the place it was grown. Compare that with the situation with a wine grape example: a famous California Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard is the Beckstoffer To-Kalon.Vineyard. Owner Andy Beckstoffer sells a ton of grapes to winemakers for about $23,500. Nearby Napa Cabernet that is not in Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard can be purchased for less than $5,500 a ton. The 400% difference reflects the primacy of grape origin when it comes to wine. The source of the grapes defines the wine.


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49 responses to “The Unsettling Truth About Go Texan Wine

  1. Dave

    It confuses wine consumers but doesn’t confuse coffee consumers and doesn’t matter when it comes to beer. Seriously? You playing fast and loose with the facts here.

  2. H. J. McCunn Jr.

    Grapes are very hard to grow in Texas. The 100% requirement would make the use of the symbol intermittent since in some years the winemaker would be forced to use grapes from elsewhere.

  3. H.J.: Thanks for your interest. I am completely comfortable with the amount of “Go Texan” wine varying with the vintage. It is an agricultural commodity. The net effect of the 100% rule would be to encourage new planting to meet the additional demand.

  4. I also think the 100% rule is too much for Texas wine. We are growing more grapes than ever in our history right now and it is still not enough for the demand.
    The grapes in Texas wine are not the only things that make it Texas wine. Having Texas winemakers who use their expertise on grapes from here or other parts of the country can make it Texas wine as well.
    I personally am not a fan of calling a wine a “Texas wine” unless it contains a portion of Texas grapes because it can be misleading. I think that “portion” should be what is agriculturally possible in a given year and not a fixed percentage.

  5. Melissa: The 100% rule does not require a winemaker to use 100% Texas grapes – only if they plan to use the “Go Texan” moniker.

    BTW: Did you know that Texas grape acreage increased about 13% a year over the period of the late 2000s up to 2012 (per TWGGA)? So any perceived shortage is a short-term issue at worst.

    The use of California grapes is a business model,, not an agricultural problem. The importer of California fruit is almost invariably bringing in bulk wine in a tanker and sticking a label on after bottling it. I don’t want “Go Texan” on that stuff.

    • “The use of California grapes is a business model,, not an agricultural problem. ” I don’t doubt for a minute that this is probably true in the majority of cases.
      However, I know winemakers who take the grapes, not bulk juice and blend them with Texas grapes. I believe this is a separate kind of artistry than a bulk juice bottled in Texas.
      When wine is made in Texas under certain specifications (ex: 75% Texas grapes, 25% Cal grapes), it should earn the right to be called a Texas wine*, but the consumer should always be told what the content is especially when the ratio might be quite the opposite (25% Tex, 75% Cal).
      Also, wanted to add that there is a difference in “Texas Wine” and “Go Texan”. Aren’t there guidelines for “Texas Wine” labeling? Perhaps “Go Texan” should adopt those.

      • The Austin Cork

        Wine is sought after by region, not by winemaker. It is also marketed by region, not winemaker. California may employ French winemakers but they still advertise California Estate wines. Further, many larger wineries in the Hill Country area employ Californian winemakers. All the winemaker artistry in the world does make it from Texas. Finally, winemakers *could* choose to pay more for the grape tonnages instead of using imports. That would certainly encourage the expansion of Texas wine grape production.

  6. I think this is a very very important topic and the TDA needs to provide better clarification when Billboards like this are posted all over the state….

    Washing California produce with Texas water can be considered “value added” to some patriotic Texans.

    HUGE misrepresentation!

    BTW where are all those “Texas wine Marketers” when we come down to a serious issue about authenticity of Texas wine? Oh that’s right, they are either silent or on the side of the wineries doing the misrepresentation….
    Why? I think its because they do not want to overturn the apple cart and lose their free wine, dinners, B&B stays all for positive reviews on their blog/publications.
    Not to mention a well as the fact that several in the past received TDA marketing $$$ and do not want to upset the TDA because they may get a chance to get more state money down the road…..
    Either that or they are rubbing up with some serious elbows in hopes that that money comes back and they will be next in line….
    ….But I digress….

  7. Andrew, I have a real issue with one of your comments: “So any perceived shortage is a short-term issue at worst.” After talking with John Rivenburgh a few weekends back, that comment is very short sighted. Yes, we increased drastically this year, but there is generally a three year wait after planting before the vines have viable fruit. This would be short term, accept, I was lead to believe that we need about 4X the acreage we have. So if we have to add on all those vineyards and wait three years for each, I can’t see how this is short term.
    We also have to add the inconsistent nature of all this. This year was bad, really bad. It may take two years to come back. This roller coast is tough. These grape growers and wineries will be hurt by the qualification. I realize that it is only voluntary, but that could hurt those that are working hard to be 100% Texan. I worry that the effect may actually hurt the industry rather than encourage growth. Besides, unless someone won a large PowerBall draw, the money for those vineyards will be hard to find.
    I think we need to look towards smaller solutions that build to a more complete one. we need to work together to work piece-by-piece until we have a better situation.

    • Robin: Thanks for your comment. Demand for Texas grapes due to the 100% rule will increase Texas grape prices, which will increase planting, which will solve the supply problem. As someone once said; The solution to high prices, is high prices.

      • Bobby Cox

        “The solution to high prices, is high prices.” Very well said Andrew. In 1993 Oregon was just 5% ahead in Texas in winegrowing , they are now four times larger than us. Their restrictions are much more strenuous than ours 95% Oregon fruit in anything bottled in Oregon much less a “go Oregon” program. I know dollar for dollar there are millions of acres more suited to winegrowing in Texas than Oregon but we are falling back. The industry needs to be cautious a goal of 95% should be in our future.

  8. Rick Naber

    Andrew: Why are you continuing to kick Texas Wineries in the face. What about all the other value added products out there with Go Texan on the label, with main ingredients sourced from out of State, ie jams, coffee, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, dried meets, and the list goes on. You need to research the mission of the Go Texan Program, and get off your high horse about the origin of grapes in Texas wines as there were less than 10% of a normal harvest that came off the High Plains this vintage and that’s just a plain fact. We are 100% Texas made, just not always 100% Texas sourced, and for that Mother Nature is in charge. You may need to go back to your roots and leave us alone in Texas.

    • Rick Nabers owner of Flat creek…Not all areas of Texas produced a 10% yield this year. Just the High Plains area that you source your grapes from. Kiepersol Estate as well as several of the vineyards in East Texas had a tremendous growing season this year. Actually East Texas has had 4 good vintages all back to back…. So to be honest, should we all feel sorry for you? Perhaps Flat Creek needs to be planting in North Texas or East Texas and not depend on growers in the High Plains.
      Not to mention from my memory (and again my memory may not be 100% correct here) you also have made a “Go Texan” wine with 25% non-Texas grapes and Claim it to be a “Texas wine” and even won a double Gold in the San Francisco Int Wine Comp with it. That wine was touted around as a”Texas wine” with the “Go Texan” stamp on the label….so in all honesty who exactly is hurting the wine industry in Texas?Andrew asking for transparency and honesty or you?
      Again Bobby Cox is 100% correct, unless strict guidelines are set up we will never see this industry grow properly.

      Again what percentage of Texas grapes do you think should be in a “Go Texan” wine (think about the name for second to those who are still scratching your head to all this)

      • The Austin Cork

        I have always taken it for granted that it was, but I will verify in the future that Flat Creek’s “Super Texan” is really 100% Texas fruit before I purchase.

    • John

      So…here we are (again). The perfect Texan response that has so amply guided the Texas Wine Industry to fractionation, inter-region dissension, and back-sliding (sorry to use a good Baptist term). Look who is on a high horse. Many Texas wines are NOT TX GROWN. That is the truth. Admit it. Texas sourced vs. Texas grown. is not an honest comparison. This isn’t rocket science and one of you guys said to me once. Just fix the definitions for the Go Texan program. Or fix your wine label to reflect the truth, and get on with it.

  9. Obviously all the people claiming the Andrew is a tool for making these comments completely miss the fact that “GO TEXAN” is a misrepresentation! The TDA posted billboards all across the state this summer stating that “GO TEXAN” is “TEXAS GROWN TEXAS PROUD! SPOT THE MARK!”
    which is a flat out LIE!!!!!!
    People like Rick and others completely miss the fact about “Truth in advertising.”
    Here is a challenge for you Rick and others, walk into your local Texas winery (or heck even your local farmers market) and ask a patron what the “Go Texan” stamp means and then get back to me……….
    Andrew has his facts straight, its just the frauds do not like it because he is calling them out and ruining their poor business model of selling jug wine under the disuse of being Texas wine, and using the “Go Texan” stamp to hide behind it…..This is the same crap I have dealt with over the years….

    Several years ago I saw a Facebook and Twitter broadcast with Fuqua winery in dallas regarding an event they were doing with “Go Texan” I quickly searched their website as well as visited their winery several months prior and noted that they sold no wine made from Texas Grapes (this was back in 2010) However they were using “Go Texan” as a broadcasting tool to get the word out about one of their events because they were a member. This was done because they simply paid the membership fee. (not that they made 100% Texas wine)
    I then contacted the TDA and spoke with the man in charge which at that time was Bobby Champion. The conversation was very light and he pretty much explained to me what “Go Texan” stood for (value added) and then pretty much told me to “chill.”
    I am just a consumer who at that time was active on twitter and facebook.
    This lie that the state has allowed to go on is now catching up with themselves…..”Go Texan” needs to end or it needs to right itself and start stating the truth…. But again its only about money to them not about supporting whats “Texas grown” like their billboards state….
    Again I challenge you to see this billboard
    Then tell me Andrew Chalk has his facts wrong!

    Also too: And Bobby Cox is 100% dead on!

    • James Freeman (aka straightshooterwines), you have posted more than once this photo of a billboard featuring vegetables and Go Texan. I’m not sure why you would bring this up in a wine-related post except it’s another Go Texan product and you have a forum for people to read your paragraphs. I’m confused what you think is misleading in that billboard from Texas vegetable farmers. I don’t see any bananas or oranges on the billboard, but since you were there perhaps there’s one hiding. What produce in that billboard is not grown in Texas?

      • WOW! JEFF! you missed the mark dude!
        The billboard makes the claim that the “Go Texan” mark advocated Texas grown and they advocate to “spot the mark” which means “look for Texas grown produce it will have this mark”
        SO…. an uneducated consumer would deduce from this that ANYTHING with a “Go Texan” stamp is 100% Texas Grown.

        Just like the 2 little old ladies I met at a local winery recently who thought that a wine with the “Go Texan” stamp is 100% Texas. They were very proud that they were supporting the Texas wine industry by only buying wines with that label. I really upset them when I made them aware about “value added”

        PS Jeff
        Go kiss up to another winery Jeff and get some more free wine….
        you are well on your way to being another “Shill” for Texas wine.

  10. I’m good with “Go Texan” meaning made in Texas. Not necessarily grown and made in Texas. If we stick to 100% grown in Texas then the 2013 vintage is going to be difficult for most wineries. I will say that I appreciate wineries that are up front about their grapes coming from outside TX. One just west of Austin sources a lot of grapes from Australia. They were open about that and we had a very pleasant conversation about their wine and the source. Oh, well. I’m just not that uptight about it I guess. I’m sure in most cases if you have a question about the source of the fruit the winery will be honest about it.

    • Jim: How would you react to a winery labeling as Go Texan a wine made in California and shipped here in a tank car where it was bottled and labelled?

      • rick leopold

        By Go Texan rules it could not be labeled Go Texan. The products have to be made in Texas at a minimum to be Go Texan. Bottling wine is not making it. Also to label would have to specify made by someone in CA and bottled by someone in TX according to labeling rule. If the wine does not at least have Texas on the front label under the wine name it is not predominantly grown in Texas. That’s pretty simple.

      • Andrew,
        There are a lot of wineries in Texas who source their grapes here and a lot of talented winemakers who make some great Texas wines. How about some focus on these in your next blog?

      • I probably would not be happy about that if it was deceptive. Does it happen? I can’t say. One thing I’ve found is every Texas winery I’ve visited (I admit this number is less than 20 at this point.) has been more than happy to talk about each wine served and how it was made. Source and all.

  11. I think a label like “Go Texan” is very misleading if the wine is not made from Texas grapes, a high percentage if not 100%. As a wine blogger we are always looking for new areas to explore and write about. Recently we were in southern Arizona on a wine trip and with one exception only visited and wrote about wineries where the majority of their wines were from grapes grown in Arizona. When we visited the wineries we made it clear we were only interested in tasting and writing about wines that were made from Arizona grown grapes.

    We have been considering a research trip to Texas as we have heard a lot of good things about their wines. I think we will reconsider that trip until we can be sure they are really making “Texas” wine. I certainly don’t need to visit Texas to drink and write about Napa Cabs. Importing grapes and fermenting them in Texas does not make a wine Texan or show off the terroir of Texas.

    I do understand there are bad years and a winery may have to buy grapes from elsewhere to stay in business, just don’t label them as “Go Texan” that year.

  12. rick leopold: Unfortunately not. If you buy two California bulk wines and blend them in Texas they can be labelled with the “Go Texan” mark because you “physically altered” the inputs to produce the output product “in a value-added procedure”. That is what the State said was required in their reply to my Freedom of Information request.

    Is it as much a shock to you as it was to me?

  13. Paul Reed

    Folks, it should be really easy. Have a special designation (Maybe a gold Lone Star”) to designate wines made with 100% Texas fruit. I totally agree that if we are ever to be recognized as a wine region, we have to first recognize that we use our Texas grown fruit.

    • Great idea. As a wine blogger/tourist I don’t want to go to Texas and taste wine made from the grapes grown next door to me here in California. Texas has a lot of potential as a wine region, don’t kill off everyone’s interest before you get established.

      • @pullthatcork, Please don’t let the complaints of some ruin the entire Texas wine industry. There are many Texas wines made from Texas fruit and you would have no problem in finding them and enjoying your visits to the wineries. If you need advice, please ask.

  14. Jay

    We have something similar called “Cellared in Canada” Unfortunately there are much cheaper places to buy grapes than Texas (or Canada) It should be illegal. Jancis Robinson wrote a scathing review of the Canadian wine industry a few years back referring to these wines as “fraudulent wines” Good luck

  15. Jim Rector: You have been to the aspirational Texas wineries! They would not even consider doing what I described. But someone without those values can do it under the current Go Texan rules. That besmirches the names of Texas wineries generally. I want to change the rules to stop that happening.

    • I have personally visited 4 wineries that have not been honest about where the grapes are from.
      If you are a somewhat educated wine drinker they might tell you, but if you’re a uneducated Moscato drinker that knows nothing about wine except the wines you buy at the grocery store, these people are the ones that I see get lied to.
      1 winery in the Dallas area in particular is notorious for this.
      Matter of fact they even make a few of their wines from home winemaking kits….
      When I visited in 2009 I asked them “What wines do they have from Texas grapes” and the guy behind the counter pouring the wine told me that all of their wines had a little bit of Texas in them. But later after I tasted the few wines that I wanted to try, I then met up with the GCC student that was tending to the wines that night for the winemaker and he instructed me that NONE of the wines in their tasting room were Texas grapes at all!
      Now this winery later produced a red and a white wine from Texas grapes that said “Texas” on the label, but these 2 have been the only 2 ever produced by this “winery.”
      This was back in 2009, I have said some nasty things to people who work at this winery as well as given a few nasty reviews about how I was mislead….and just last month I was at a local DFW Specs store looking at wine (old world wines as a matter of fact) and this same winery had a rep there wearing a long sleeved Texas Brushpopper shirt. Cowboy boots and Jeans (he really looked Texan) and was asking shoppers “Folks, would you like to try some Texas wine?” with as thick of a Texas accent about as thick as anyone could possibly have.
      When I got to looking at the wines he was pouring not a SINGLE DAMN ONE of them were from Texas!
      I thought that this winery might have learned it lesson, but nope! Seems they will never until someone does it for them…..I left names out but I think a few of you in the DFW area will know who I am talking about. Dishonest wineries exist here in Texas and they need to be put down….Do not think that they do not exist!

  16. The Lav

    This is like Hot Sauce made in NYC!!!

  17. Gary

    So far nobody has even mentioned the reason for the existence of the Go Texan program. A few years ago the Legislature said that they could no longer fund the Texas Department of Agriculture. TDA was told that they would have to become revenue neutral or they would have to raise all of the money that it takes to run that agency. The Go Texan program is one of the major sources of revenue that keeps the TDA from going out of business. My winery is a Go Texan member but I do not use the Go Texan logo. I am a member because I want to help support TDA, but I do not use the logo because some of my wine is 100% Estate grown and some is not. If I get wine from California I use the California appellation on the label. If it is a blend of California and Texas grapes by law I must use American as the appellation. Sometimes I will use a vineyard designation to show what vineyard the grapes came from. We try to be honest about our wines and we follow the Federal labeling laws. If you stop businesses from using the Go Texan logo all you are going to do is make it more difficult for the Texas Department of Agriculture to raise money to stay in business. It is not that difficult to read a label and know what is in the bottle. At least we have Federal laws to regulate what goes on the label for a bottle of wine. I have seen Olive oil from California bottled here and labeled Texas Olive oil. Go Texan members are paying money to support the Texas Department of Agriculture. Maybe TDA should advertise that Go Texan members are Texas businesses that support the Texas economy and not try to make promises about where the products come from.

    • Not trying to start a political discussion but what is the point of a Department of Agriculture if it needs to create programs to raise money that don’t really have any true meaning behind them. It appears the Go Texan program is just a logo that businesses can buy and put on almost anything as long as they modified the product a little themselves.

      It certainly doesn’t reflect well to people that don’t live in Texas. I expect more when I see a logo or label promoting a product from a certain place.

      • Exactly, pullthatcork. The logo is meaningless as currently constructed.

        The 100% rule makes it meaningful and unreservedly positive for Texas wineries and grape growers.

  18. Gary: If Go Texan meant 100% Texas grapes I expect more wineries would join because the mark would have real credibility. State revenue would increase.

    As things stand, not only TDA supporters like yourselves can join. So can juice brokers who blend two California bulk wines and label and bottle it in Texas. The mark is meaningless..

    • Paul reed

      The unfortunate fact that seems to be ignored here is simple math. You have 300 plus wineries that need to produce and sell product. You have a grape growing industry that cannot, in a good year, meet the quantity demand for fruit. You have a crop this year of somewhere in the 15% range due to spring frost and hail events. (compare that to 4 million tons in CA this year). All of that said, there is still no reason that the fortunate few who have grapes cannot take advantage of that and have an accurately labeled “Texas Wine” that consumers can easily discern without having to search small print for “For sell in Texas only”. Everyone else can make absolutely wonderful wines crafted in beautiful wineries in Texas and be proud of their craft. They just cannot call them TEXAS WINES. Should be that simple. If you want to make Texas wines, grow grapes and/or support Texas grape growers. Probably be suprised how much cotton could be plowed up in the pan handle if the price of a ton of grapes went up a few $100/ton……..just saying……

  19. Richard

    Simple reply: Me, and my little, one man native winery, located in East Texas, (about 60 miles S.West of Dallas) in Mabank, Texas were born, raised, and bred. Other than from our own tiny vineyard, my grapes are all purchased from local vineyards, from a very exclusive private Texas coop, and which I can truly say are “Go Texan” There is no so called, percentage of native grapes, because it is all 100% Texan. Yep, it is what it is, and with our hot, and dry, to very hot, and very dry climate; our native grapes go through some of the most extreme, and stressful climate that mother nature has to offer. Does it make a difference that you can taste? People who drop by our place seem to think so; but I only make the stuff from what is locally available. If you are curious, or clever, and want to know what I think “Go Texan” really means then seek us out.

    Richard Martin, Wine Maker
    Red Wagon Winery
    Mabank, Texas

  20. The Austin Cork

    Andrew, the mark is meaningless except to those ignorant consumers (formerly me) who felt that it meant 100% Texas produce. Now I know better. And Gary, it may not be difficult to read a label if you know what you’re looking for, but it sure the hell is time consuming. Especially when your eyes are the age of mine. The ability to scan for familiar appellations or symbols of origin and quality cuts shopping time astronomically. Not only are they legal guarantees (DOCG), but they are also a type of consumer shorthand. Do the same winemakers. Go get a big shiny icon of some type and stamp it on authentic bottles. Quit trying to be ambiguous and disclose it. Is it Texas fruit or not?

  21. Tanya Hinson

    I think this is a great point, the real wine makers and growers need to have a way to stand out. Most people do not have a clue that most wine made in Texas is not grown in Texas.

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