by Steven Doyle
For fans and followers of chef Cody Sharp, as we announced about a month ago he is now hanging his toque at Standard Pour on McKinney in Uptown. Last night the chef performed his first of what hope will be many cocktail dinners at the two year old bar. The style of cookery defined mostly what Sharp is all about, and that is a refined view of Southern cuisine. Sharp rose through the ranks steadily, taking knowledge from some pretty fantastic chefs such as Randall Copeland and Nathan Tate, Scott Romano, Matt McCallister, Katherine Clapner, and most recently at Casa Rubia with Omar Flores. Last night we watched Sharp fly as executive chef along with his new sous Callie Doyle.
The evening was sponsored by Angel’s Envy, the bright bourbon which has recently been rated as number one in the world. That’s a tall compliment, but deservedly so. This rye whiskey was conceived by the master himself, Lincoln Henderson. Henderson passed away nearly one year ago and was described as a malcontent, and a restless creator. To those that enjoy his spirits he was legend. I had a chance to interview Henderson a few years back and his brilliant graciousness cooed as he recounted his storied life as a master distiller. Angel’s Envy is just as bright with its golden amber color and slight pink hue. The aromatic nose with sweet notes from the port delivers a distinctive maple and caramel nose with easy finish that is slightly dry, yet soft.
The combination of cocktail and kitchen was immaculate as each side of the house presented their finest. First we witnessed a Boulevardier made of Angel’s Envy, Campari, Carpana Antica, and vanilla tincture. This was paired up nicely with a duo of fried oysters sitting tall with Wonderbread, tomato jam, charred lettuce and a housemade hot sauce. Equally grand was Sharp’s raviolo made with rye flour and filled with black eyed peas and an egg yolk. This was surrounded by a chanterelle conserva and a shaving of Australian truffles. Not bad for bar, but certainly expected from Sharp.
Oyster
Raviolo
The chorus continued with beautifully grilled quail with pickled peaches and a green tomato kimchi. This wa coupled with a bourbon stone sour made from a special Angel’s Envy Standard Pour blend apricot cordial, peach bitters, lemon juice, egg white and cloves. Beautiful.
The fourth course involved loosening of the belts as Sharp presented a full sized bone-in Heritage Berkshire Chop woth a sorghum mustard vinaigrette and paired with (get this) pork infused Angel’s Envy bourbon, Cocchi di Torino, Angostura ad orange oils. An extremely interesting Manhattan.
Quail
Chop
The night fished sweetly with a dark chocolate tart thrown down by the chef that was laced with candied peanuts and an Angel’s Envy salted caramel. It is a delight when a savory chef can actually do pastry.
We understand that the new Standard Pour burger is something to behold. We saw a few pass by last night, and now we have a mission.
Standard Pour | 2900 McKinney Ave | 214.935.1370
We’ve followed Chef Cody to each of his stops along the way during his career and have found his food to be some of the delicious we’ve ever had. Yes this guy CAN put deserts together that will dazzle you. Not sure which is better…..the meal or the deserts that he can put together on a moment’s notice. If you can get out to Standard Pour you won’t be disappointed. Don’t forget to stop by the bar too….there are surprises to be had there also.