by Steven Doyle photo courtesy of Seattle Times
You may recall Brady Williams, the very calm and reserved chef who opened FT33 just under Matt McCallister, and Blanca in New York. Brady Williams the talented and driven chef who took his leave from our city to set out on his own in Seattle and has been making national food headlines since.
He is rocking tables at Canlis in Seattle and just named Best New Chef for 2018 by Food and Wine. James Beard had love for Williams earlier in the year with a Rising Star chef of the Year nomination.
Williams with a host of chefs at a special dinner at Restaurant Ava 2012
Here is an excerpt from Food and Wine’s tale of Chef Williams. We congratulate and continue to follow the chef as he throws stones at the very ordinary, making taste the very best of the senses.
Williams—an alum of Blanca in New York and FT33 in Dallas—shook up the classic when he took over the kitchen in 2015, bringing his Japanese heritage to bear on the menu. He amplifies barley porridge with green strawberries, sorrel, shiso, and curls of geoduck. A barley crêpe folded around fermented cabbage has shades of okonomiyaki, with sauce Pierre, a Canlis classic, standing in for Kewpie mayo. There are a few untouchables on the Canlis menu, including prawns warmed with butter and vermouth. Williams still serves it that way, but he put the dish through a workout: He traveled to Alaska to connect with a trustworthy source for spot prawns, installed tanks in the kitchen to store the live shellfish, and only offers the dish during the peak season of May through July. That’s the magic that can happen when a visionary tangos with an icon: Williams’ work at Canlis is as much a truce with the past as it is a bid for the future.