by Steven Doyle
It might make for a better story if Pappy’s Old Fashioned Hamburger, Inc was run by Pappy O’Daniel. I envision the rotund man sweeping the crumbs off the floor while whistling a few Soggy Bottom Boy’s tunes. In actuality, the owner does look a bit like O’Daniel, only taller. But that is where the fictional character and the burgermeister part company. The Dallas restaurant located on Mockingbird, very near Love Field Airport, jets out some mighty fine burgers along with a selection of home cooked dinner plates such as catfish and meatloaf. This is a Blue Plate heaven.
Give yourself an excuse to pass through the industrial neighborhood and discover a slice of old fashioned goodness on a plate. Be sure to order the fries since these hand cut babies are simple and delicious. The fries are worth the trip alone, but you will want to stay for the burger.
I have been on a chili burger kick as of late and the Pappy chili is traditional, with its chunky beef and chili gravy. Add plenty of chopped onions and you have the making for one hell of a burger.
The half pound behemoth is a loosely hand-packed patty and seared on a flat top along with 8 or 9 other burgers. The buns are soft yet toasty, with a certain Mrs. Beard’s characteristic that suits us just fine. This isn’t a fancy burger, it is just a damned good one.
How Pappy’s eluded me for so long is a mystery wrapped in bacon and fried on a griddle.
Pappy’s Old Fashioned Hamburger | 1475 W Mockingbird, Dallas | 214.678.0760
