Sachet’s Menu Is a Masterclass in Mediterranean Cooking 

There’s a specific type of Dallas restaurant that never really goes out of style, the one you keep coming back to not because it’s new but because it never stopped being good. Sachet is that restaurant. located in the Shops of Highland Park on Oak Lawn Avenue, it opened in September 2017 as the second act from chef Stephen Rogers and his wife Allison Yoder, the couple behind Gemma, the Henderson Avenue restaurant that’s been one of Dallas’s most beloved dining rooms for over a decade. Where Gemma leans French and intimate, Sachet takes the same obsessive care and points it at the entire Mediterranean coast, pulling from Spain, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, and North Africa without ever feeling scattered.

The room itself does a lot of the talking before the food even arrives. High ceilings, pale woods, and a wall of natural light give the space a quiet confidence, and the centerpiece is a glass-encased, temperature-controlled wine cellar that sits in full view of the dining room, a nod to just how seriously Sachet takes its wine program. That program has earned real recognition too, a James Beard national semifinalist nod for Outstanding Wine Program and continued praise from The Dallas Morning News for a list built entirely around Mediterranean regions most Dallas wine lists ignore.

Add in Michelin’s recommendation, Sachet has spent nearly a decade collecting accolades that would make most restaurants complacent. It hasn’t. The menu keeps moving, and the current spring lineup is some of the most confident cooking the kitchen has put out.

Tirokafteri
Yellow Beets

Snacks open the meal the way they should, small and built for a glass of wine in hand. The Marinated Olives get brightened with citrus and garlic, the Wood-Oven Pita comes dusted in dukkah and finished with Paradiso extra-virgin olive oil, and the Tirokafteri, a spicy whipped feta dip, is the kind of thing that disappears from the table before the wine even arrives.

The cold mezze section is where the kitchen’s restraint really shows. The Tuna Tartare gets a Texas jalapeño kick against labne, grapes, and hazelnut dukkah, an unlikely combination that somehow reads as inevitable once it’s in front of you. The Fattoush layers whipped feta and pita croutons over tomato and cucumber sourced from Katsuri Farms, and the Yellow Beets, plated over red-beet hummus with frisée, pistachio, and labne, has been one of the menu’s signature dishes for years for good reason.

Eggplant Schnitzel
Whole Branzino
Tagliatelle 

The warm mezze push further into the wood oven, where the Texas Blue Oyster Mushrooms land over Greek fava purée with marcona almonds, and the Green Fava Falafel, served with mint yogurt, skips the heaviness most falafel can’t avoid.

From the grill, the Whole Branzino, filleted tableside and served over a heirloom bean salad with sauce provençal, remains one of the more theatrical dishes in the city without ever feeling like theater for its own sake. The Grilled Lamb Chops come with tzatziki and grilled scallions, and the Texas Wagyu Steak Frites, an eight-ounce petite tender plated with Greek fries and zhoug, gives steak lovers a reason to stay on theme instead of defaulting to a standard steakhouse cut.

The Berkshire Pork Secreto, finished with mojo verde over crispy Texas fingerling potatoes, might be the single best value plate on the menu.

Lamb Shank

Pasta is handmade in-house, and the Campanelle, tossed in a Turkish lamb ragu with roasted eggplant, labne, and fresh mint, is the dish regulars order without opening the menu. The Tagliatelle, built around lump crab, Fresno chile, and marcona almonds, is worth the extra few dollars for anyone who wants to see what the kitchen does with seafood and pasta on the same plate, and the Bucatini alla Genovese, finished with chervil pesto, asparagus, and lemon ricotta, is the lighter, brighter option for warmer nights on the patio.

What makes Sachet worth returning to, year after year, isn’t any single dish. It’s that the restaurant has never coasted on its early accolades or its sister restaurant’s reputation. The kitchen keeps refining, the wine list keeps expanding, and nearly nine years in, Sachet still cooks like it has something left to prove.

Related

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Leave a Reply