by Steven Doyle
There are times when I feel this national taco obsession might be a bit out of control. It is just then that happenstance smacks me in the grill with a killer version of the street meat. This was the case yesterday as I meandered down Harry Hines.
There is actually no excuse to be on Harry Hines unless you are looking for a good price on a dozen cheap sunglasses, a used tire on the DL, or trying to make your way from north to south very quickly. Or if you are in need of a taco. The latter was the case yesterday and I found a nice one at this bizarre gas station that is really just a front for a lavenderia.
You may have seen Fox Fuels, there are actually several locations in the DFW area. You know the one with the fancy chandeliers? They also have these superb tromp tacos. On my visit they were making a trompo for all to see, and this can be fascinating unto itself. They pile layers of seasoned pork onto this massive skewer as it takes that classic conical form.
So it is pork, slathered with a chile slurry and topped with a pineapple to bring together an interesting profile that is spicy yet with a slight sweetness. Then you have the char from the many rotations across the fiery element. All this makes for a fistful of bliss .
You know you found true trompo happiness when you have a beautiful char with an underbelly of juicy meat that screams tenderness with eat bite. This is what I experienced. The taco had great balance with a bit of spicy with a side of sweetness. The salsa verde is also quite good.
Coupled with what looks like 500 washers and dryers, a stadium-sized television screen and tacos, Fox Fuels is a smart idea for a quick lunch. Don’t forget the elotes con vaso just outside the doorway.