Derby sits inside The Shop on John W. Carpenter Freeway, a private car and motorcycle club that just happens to have one of the more interesting restaurants in Dallas hiding inside it. You don’t stumble onto Derby. You have to already know it’s there, which is part of what makes the place work. From the freeway it reads like a warehouse. Inside, it’s leather banquettes, a working garage full of vintage cars visible from the dining room, and a kitchen turning out food that has no business being this good given how easily it could have coasted on novelty alone.
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