First Look: Homewood

by Steven Doyle     photos by Reed Kenney  

Embering at what could be mistaken for  your own kitchen and digs Homewood, Matt McCallister’s latest restaurant is tucked into a space created from the ground up by Design Hound along with McCallister and his partner Michael Burnett. The menu is mastered with fresh and local ingredients, as you should expect from this brilliant chef, gardener, forager.

Glazed Carrots

There as a time, many years ago when McCallister was with Stephan Pyles (his foray is hospitality) where he phoned me at 3am to tell me of a dream about a carrot. Simple and pure, the carrot was forged in molecular gastronomy. He has since driven past this technique and honed his skills masterfully to the distinct pleasure of his guests now creating dishes such as his Parker House Rolls, Roasted Chicken and Smoked Pork Loin. Dishes people eat daily but made with verve and the skill McCallister has assumed.

You will experience the hands of our ancestors with the chef’s primary use of embers and roasting, a throwback with futuristic nods.

Discover the raw bar. Oysters, scallops, dry  aged tartare and tuna will all please.

Oak Smoked Hereford Pork Loin

Embered Monterrey Squid

The space is on the small side giving  the illusion you are in someone’s home eagerly awaiting the next platter of goodness. Look for embered beets, potato soup and ricotta gnocchi. We do indeed crave razor clams, grass-fed beef and handmade pastas, all now found at Homewood.

Cheese courses with house jams, semifreddo and rice pudding will send you off smilin along with a requisite coconut tart. You will want to visit often.