Most people driving through The Village on their way somewhere else have no reason to stop at Meridian. That’s their loss. The restaurant at 5605 Village Glen Drive reopened last October under executive chef Eduardo Osorio, and buried in a menu of wood-fired oysters, foie gras cornbread, and dry-aged steaks is one of the better burgers in Dallas — a burger that most of the city hasn’t found yet.
Osorio came up through Catch Hospitality and the 50 Eggs group, the Miami-based restaurant company behind Yardbird. He’s from Los Angeles. He took over a room that had been two different restaurants in four years — first the acclaimed Brazilian concept under chef Junior Borges, then a closure, then a gut renovation — and rebuilt the menu around fire. Almost everything at Meridian passes through the wood-burning hearth. The burger is no exception.
The Buzzed & Aged Burger is the one. Wagyu beef, Gruyère, caramelized onions on a butter-toasted bun. The tallow from the Wagyu ends up in the sear on the oysters, the char on the vegetables, the overall register of the kitchen — so when the burger hits the flat top, it’s cooking in a room that’s been running at that temperature and in that fat all night. Texas Monthly reviewed Meridian after the October reopening and kept the burger in the lead. That’s not an accident.
The room helps put it in context. Meridian is quieter than it used to be — the Brazilian fine dining era attracted a different crowd — and Osorio has leaned into that shift. The daily bread service still runs, still baked by David Madrid, still changing every week. The Foie & Sea Island Cornbread with brown butter is on the table next to you. The 21-Day Dry Aged Ribeye with smoked tomato bordelaise is on the menu if you want it. The burger sits in that company and holds its own.
Meridian is open Tuesday through Thursday 4:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4:30 to 11 p.m., Sunday 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Mondays. Reservations on OpenTable. The address is 5605 Village Glen Drive.
