For more than four years, the largest newspaper in Dallas hasn’t run a formal restaurant review. That’s changing. A new job posting for a Food Editor at the Dallas Morning News confirms the paper is building back out a real restaurant criticism operation, listing that the new hire will supervise both a dedicated restaurant critic and a food digital producer, two positions the paper hasn’t had staffed together in years.
Continue readingFiled under Steven Doyle
by Steven Doyle
Last week the Dallas Morning News food critic Leslie Brenner rolled out an article that basically explained how she could judge a restaurant with a simple visit to an establishment’s menu online. The premise was that if you noted off season ingredients, or tired dishes on the menu the restaurant might not be up to her level of cuisine.
Brenner also specifically mentioned cassoulet and braised meats as seasonal dishes and this raised the ire of the soon-to-open Boulevardier restaurateur, Brooks Anderson. I ran into Brooks last night and he shared his studied opinion on the issue. Specifically that these dishes and more are offered throughout the changes of seasons in a true French bistro.
Today Brooks backed up this opinion on his Facebook wall in an open letter to Brenner and was signed by the four partners in the business, Brooks and Bradley Anderson, Nathan Tate and Randall Copeland. Continue reading
Filed under chefs, restaurant news, Steven Doyle
