by Steven Doyle
Today marks the opening of The Commissary’s restaurant-within-a-restaurant One Art. We were fortunate to be part of the few to preview some of the offerings that the new restaurant will offer and will share the photos below.
It is interesting to note that unlike the One Art predecessor, The Table, there will be a few changes. One notable change is price. Chef-owner John Tesar noted last evening that the all night multi-course room wasn’t as successful due to the economy, and scaled the menu back by lowering price points, offering an ala carte menu, and sticking to more basic ingredients rather than the foie and caviar heavy approach he had before.
Another change is there will be two seating’s each night allowing more access to the tiny room that can seat about a dozen people.
If the dinner served last evening is any indication of what will transpire each night, craveDFW readers should reach for the nearest phone to snatch a reservation.
Here are a few highlights:
Tesar served this dish of clam and lobster in the own broth as a simple but power-packed amuse. Hopefully this will make it to the menu on a regular basis.
As presented, each dish was met with a slight gasp. Perhaps that sounds a bit over-the-top, but despite his silly reputation for being a bad-ass, the man can really cook.
This dish of charred baby octopus with a grapefruit frisse was highly anticipated, and did not disspoint.
Althought it may not look off-the-charts amazing, this gratin of crab with an herb hollandaise was filled with giant shards of Gulf crab that made us all beg for more.
Beef tongue and chicken livers set off the freshly made pasta with the perfectly poached duck egg providing proper lubrication and added flavor.
When craveDFW announced the perfect sandwich made up of pork belly and the griddled heirloom tomato, Tesar said he had to turn away some guests requests. Here the is the latest incarnation of the sandwich as an entree served with truffle scented brado and collard greens. the pork was of course succulent and crispy at the same time.
Causing a bit of a stir, Tesar delivered a chocolate souffle for a perfect ending to the evening.
The sizes of the dishes above are not indicative of the serving size a guest will receive. This was a tasting menu and Tesar plans for much larger portions which could be shared to give guests more options and flavors. The starters hover at the low to mid-teen price point, and the entrees low to mid twenties.
Tesar also addressed the service issues which have been a concern for some guests, saying that it was something he was continually working to improve.
The Commissary burger and specials menu is always available and served late into each night.
That looks delicious!
Time for “bad ass” to be a good guy , really go to work and let his food do the talking. If wasting his talent just to keep the bad ass reputation is the choice then he will have wasted a golden opportunity to earn his place in the Pantheon of the Dallas food scene. What’s done is done and let’s just remember that we are all as good as our last screw up !