Graham Dodds Is Crushing It At Central 214

by Steven Doyle

As most know there have been huge changes at Central 214 since hiring forward-thinking chef Graham Dodds, and soon there will be a fun remodel to reflect more what the chef and the hotel are really about. The Hotel Palomar is the sleek and modern hotel owned by Kimpton and touts to be a green hotel with a corporate philosophy of environmental conservation and consciousness. Soon there will be a remodel to reflect that style more and open up the room more to the hotel. 

This sounds like chef Dodds, and seems to be a perfect fit for both chef and venue.

You will recall Dodds from his days at Bolsa where he was on the cutting edge of all things local and fresh. As a practice he culled from local sources and farms. This shines through strong on his interim menu that will soon be phased out as he designs his Spring menu. This all hinges on how the weather plays out and what might be available.

Last night I stopped in Central 214 to see how the new menu was coming along. I have had some of the dishes on the current menu and wanted to try more. Here are a few stand outs from our dinner last night.

This was a beautiful salad Dodds was offering last night featuring warm pickled morels and goat cheese. I could subsist on thsi dish alone.

I suppose all the dishes we tried last night were stand outs, but this goat brisket was surprising and delicious.

Hanger steak can be so precarious, but Dodds performed some sort of Wiccan magic on the beef that made a soft and tender interior with a smoky crisped crust. With the addition of the triple fried fries this was a perfect meat and potatoes dish.

It is no secret that Dodds loves the Honeybee Guild and incorpates their product in any way he can.  The cheese course featured one of my favorites from Eric Tippit and Karen Dierolf  at Caprino Royale, their Provencal Chevre; and honeycomb from the local bee keepers Brandon and Susan Pollard. There is something very comforting about knowing these growers by name.

Check out Dodds’ handiwork at Central 214.

Central 214 Restaurant
5680 North Central Expressway, Dallas

1 Comment

Filed under Cheese, chefs, Crave, Dallas, fun with food, restaurant news, Steven Doyle

One response to “Graham Dodds Is Crushing It At Central 214

  1. Elmer

    Dodds has done a spectacular job at 214. I have enjoyed every meal that I’ve had there. Milk and honey braised goat belly was spectacular.

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