Duck Fat Charms Potatoes Into Submission

by Steven Doyle

You remember chef Rodman Shields, formerly top toque at Nick and Sams. He is now doing his thing at Cool River and has a lot of excitement buzzing with his style of cooking. Shields is revamping the kitchen in such a positive way that it should rate high on your restaurant bucket list for the week.    

Shields has listened to me rant about about duck fat frites for some time now. I know duck fat can be expensive, and this is the primary reason we do not see this item on local menus. But there are a few chefs in town that handle plenty of duck fat, and I won’t call them out publicly but we have had this conversation many times.

There is a reason for my ranting, just so you know. When you ensconce the slivers of potatoes in duck fat it gives them an extra zip of flavor and richness not found in other oils. Duck fat is actually nearly as good for you as olive oil as it’s relatively high in monounsaturated fats. The delicate crispness and full on flavor of these frites remains unmatched. Until today I would have to make these babies myself or fly to Chicago and dine at Hot Dougs  where the fries cost a mere $3.50 (cash only).

Today chef Shields sends me well wishes and this photo of what he has cooking at Cool River. Well played.

 

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