by Steven Doyle
One of my favorite chefs in Dallas is Rodman Shields at Cool River Café. The chef has a fantastic time in the kitchen, and every time he does something that he knows I will get all giddy about, he gives me a shout out. He had me once with his dedicated duck fat fryer that made the most ethereal frites I have ever sampled. Earlier this week he called to tell me about this new burger he has on the menu. He knows I like a good burger, I suppose.
How right he is.
The new creation chef Shields has ready for you to sample is his ration of burgers that he simply calls the 50/50. That would be 50% freshly ground sirloin and 50% ground apple wood smoked bacon. Sheesh, it doesn’t take that much to coax me into Cool River for lunch or dinner, I am happy to go willingly.
If it has been a while since you checked into a Cool River, and don’t forget the one at DFW Airport and Love Field, the restaurant is definitely built to make you happy. The Las Colinas location has this huge ration of pool tables with plenty of TV’s (I spent last Super Bowl watching the tubes there), but they also serve up large platters of meat. You can find specimens like venison if you are so inclined, but I am just as happy with the lamb or one of the many beef dishes. Oh, and the ribs. Needless to say there’s no shortage of protein at Cool River.
Then there are the 50/50’s. Currently you can only find the special burgers in Las Colinas. They come in four convenient styles. I liked the one with a fried egg and grilled quartered jalapenos. You can also have them served with drunken sautéed onions, or even fried onion slivers. The best part is that there is bacon in every bite. Smoky, titillating, satisfying and most certainly inviting.
If you want one of Shield’s 50/50’s today you are plum out of luck. He just sent me a text saying they sold out in 45 minutes. There is always tomorrow.
