by Steven Doyle
Meshack’s Bar-Be-Que Shack is simply that. A shack in an industrial encampment of Garland that if anyone had placed the location in a business plan it would have been summarily rejected immediately. However, this long standing BBQ restaurant has succeeded without interior dining, long waits during peak hours, and otherwise some pretty delicious BBQ. That smell is not only pecan wood, it is the smell of success for owner Travis Mayes.
When reviewing a BBQ restaurant in Texas it is always about the brisket, and the brisket can be quite exceptional at Meshack’s, but the true star of this show is without a doubt the ribs.
Ribs may be purchased in rack form by the pound, or as a sandwich which always stymied me when the sandwich arrives with a fair amount of ribs laid haphazardly between two slices of Baird’s finest, bones and all. That is simply how it is done in old school BBQ haunts, and it is a matter of dissection when actually consuming the beast.
In the case of the Meshack rib sandwich, it is quite delicious and comes well sauced. But there was actually no need for the sauce today as the ribs were, and are always exceptional.
The options are simple at Meshack’s, chopped beef, slice beef, smoked links and the ribs. I always want a link when they can be found, especially from old school pitmasters who can take a pedestrian link and turn it into something of their very own. There is a fine line between smoked with a snappy casing, and an explosive meat bomb, and Meshack’s is able to know the difference.
Chopped beef has always eluded me, so I always pass when it comes to chopped up ends and pieces smothered in sauce. To taste a brisket you need slices, preferably on the fatty side where you are able to take in the nuances of flavors of beef versus smoke. You are also taking in a bit of the pitmaster’s majesty and years of accumulated knowledge.
For me, Meshack’s will always be about the bones. Order a rack for good measure and take home some flavor.
Meshack’s Bar-Be-Que Shack | 240 E. Ave B, Garland | 214.227.4748