There are restaurants built around food, and there are restaurants built around a feeling. Drake’s Hollywood is the second kind, and it makes no apologies about that. The room at 5007 W. Lovers Lane near Briarwood is dim in the way that costs money to achieve correctly — not dark, not moody in the self-conscious sense, just lit at the right level to make everyone in it look like they belong to a better decade. The crimson leather banquette booths that line the walls curve and scallop in a way that recalls early 1960s Las Vegas without winking at you about it.
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