There is a giant Angus steer on the roof. That’s the first thing you notice driving down Jefferson Boulevard, and it tells you everything you need to know about what Charco Broiler is before you walk through the door. This is a steakhouse built for the neighborhood, not for the city. It has been on W. Jefferson Boulevard between Bishop and Adams since 1963 — the same year the Texas Theater down the street became famous for reasons that had nothing to do with movies — and it has been family-owned and operated every single year since. The charcoal smoke hits you before you reach the door. That smell is sixty years of open-flame cooking and it belongs to the block.
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