Before Dallas had a fine dining scene worth arguing about, it had La Tunisia — and La Tunisia had a seven-foot doorman named Abdull who had allegedly been a palace guard for Sheik Mirza Hassan of Morocco and wore ceremonial Watusi chieftain’s robes to work every day on Harry Hines Boulevard.
It was that era in Dallas. And it was that kind of restaurant.
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The address was 4515 Greenville Avenue, but that didn’t help much. The building sat back off the street, down an alley near Yale Boulevard, behind nothing that looked like a restaurant. No sign. No parking lot to speak of. No indication from the street that anything worth finding was back there. Judge Buchmeyer — a federal judge, a man accustomed to having things run efficiently — drove up and down Greenville trying to locate it before finally giving up, parking, and walking until he found the door. When he walked inside, Mickey Mantle was sitting at a table eating a burger.
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