by Steven Doyle
For the life of Mico Rodriguez he has done nothing more than try to please us all. Early on in his career you know he was responsible for bringing us what is now the behemoth M Crowds restaurant group which own Mi Cocina et al. A bout with alcoholism took this company away from him and left his to his own devices and went about to correcting this portion of his storied life. Now, the man who is responsible for changing the way we dine in Dallas, nay, most of the Tex Mex dining world is clean, sober and taking back his stake in the dining market through his company that owns Mesero and its little sister Mr Mesero.
We met with Mico at Mr Mesero a few years back when he discussed his desire to regain what was once his and laid out the plans meticulously. These plans and more have come to fruition.
The results are a healthy and right-thinking Mico and a happy fining public. Enter Mesero today where hundreds of happy employs lift our Tex Mex spirits through an amazing ceviche, fish tacos that can only wow, and mole enchiladas that are earthy and inviting.
This week we visited the land of Mico and found everything right in his house. The staff spoke of the menu with Ecclesiastical pride and the kitchen followed through with pleasing offerings such as those enchiladas (Oaxaquenas) that are laden with this mole sauce that has been in the works for days before our arrival with its many ingredients and swathed onto a pulled chicken stuffed tortillas that is slightly thick with an excellent bite.
Glorious was Carne Asada made from grilled skirt steak and served with a sautee of onion and Serrano peppers. This, incidentally, was our absolute favorite on the menu and is accompanied by rice and beans with a thick stack of both corn and flour tortillas.
You will also find the amazing slow roasted pork made with chile cascabel, onions and poblanos; Chile Colorado. Soothing and rich is in majesty of bite. A Mesero must.
Mosey around the menu for a tour de flavor, it will all please most any palate and educate those relegated to the fiery pit of Tex Mex hell. It is time for your palate to advance and Mesero with be your guide.
We attempted to sample as many of Mesero’s margaritas and declare a winner, the very best, but were unable to sip more than just a few before the use of a car service was in order.
Finish any meal off with a pleasure ride to Pastel Cinco Leches. You have had the soupy tres leches cake, or even a divine quatro leches, but it seems with the addition of one more “leche” you get refinement beyond belief. Light, creamy, without an overly powerful blast of sucre. Order two. One for the table and one for lunch the next day. Thank us whenever you wish.
Cocktails are not an after thought. Mico himself may not drink anymore but that doesn’t mean he isn’t offering you something distinctly delicious from his go-to playbook. Margaritas are not for the faint of heart at Mesero. We attempted to sample as many of Mesero’s margaritas and declare a winner, the very best, but were unable to sip more than just a few before the use of a car service was in order. We can say the most memorable was either the El Santo, a strong, margarita served frozen with a splash of house-made sangria and a does of verve. We also sampled a monthly offering that was made on-the-rocks with a healthy chug of Grand Marnier as a floater. Cheek numbing is the best word I might come up with for this delight.
Check out one of the many Mesero locations this weekend and be prepared to sip through a litany of margaritas, the most interesting ceviche and a few tacos for good measure. Life changed.