Brunch Magic at Toulouse

by Steven Doyle

So I’m writing this stuff and some of you are reading. I know because when I am out waiting on a cocktail you will ask me if I am going to order a Manhattan. Or on a Saturday you will ask me where I am heading to brunch  the next morning. Busted. I am an avid brunch-a-holic.

It’s not so much the food. Yes, I have a not-so-secret love affair with the egg, securing breakfast or brunch as a top favorite meal. But the conversations that take place at brunch are so much more livelier than at dinner. Perhaps inhibitions drop after a night of revelry. Whatever the case may be, brunch is king.          

This past weekend I met with my usual brunch crowd and we settled in on Toulouse. I am very familiar with the  country French-style bistro on Knox, and have dined there many times in the past. I am particularly fond of the mussels. If you enjoy your mussels you are in luck, Toulouse offers mussels prepared five different ways including their homage to Marc Cassel’s Green Room style that is comprised of Jalapeño, Ginger, Shiitake Mushrooms, Champagne and Garlic. At one time there were at least six or seven local restaurants making the mussels in this fashion, now I can only think of a few. But they are worth ordering, the broth is incredible.

Also on the menu are frog legs and escargot. I am spotting escargot more and more on menus around town, and that is a good thing.

But this is brunch. Scanning the menu the table quickly agreed that whatever we would order we certainly must begin with the New Orleans-style beignets that come dusted with the required dusting of confectioners sugar and a side of a cappuccino sauce. The bowl of beignets seemed unending with a heart seven count of the large, light and puffy fried balls.

Typically the group will confer aloud as not to order anything similar. We like to share. But on this day we didn’t coordinate and almost all ordered a version of eggs Benedict. I know I did. Enter the Crab Florentine with a Sauce Choron. Not familiar with a Choron? Think hollandaise with a tomato puree which worked well as it is typically served with fish. The sauce was silky and buttery.

One table mate ordered a bit differently and went for the steak tartare. Great choice for those watching carbs. I peeked at the dish and minutes later it was gone, so we must assume it was particularly delicious.

The meal continued with vapid conversation bouncing between the adventures of the previous evening and puppies. It’s what goes so well with brunch.