by Steven Doyle
Kissing cousins to Le Bilboquet located within walking distance, Up on Knox is a more refined version of the French brasserie. The decor scream brasserie with elegant touches deserving the neighborhood and also befitting the menu and theme. Although the menu is not decidedly French, look for beautiful technique on this chic menu.
The restaurant is open all day starting with a breakfast menu that includes a variety of pastries such as croissant, sticky buns and toasts. Along with pastries look for a few egg dishes, you will want to tastes the Gruyere omelet with fresh herbs and mixed greens. It may ruin you for other omelets.
Enjoy lunch in high style with a lobster club sandwich, a smattering of fantastic oysters, crab tostadas, Swiss chard and mushroom tart and so much more. There is a bit of a spa element, but you may still grab one of the better burgers in Dallas made with 44 Farms beef and duroc bacon. And their bacon is superb.
In the evening Up on Knox lends itself as a place to be seen at the beautiful bar that spills out onto the street. A perfect patio setting to sip martinis and champs. On our visits the bar begged for a martini to be ordered, and it was a delicious choice.
The evening also screams for a raw bar selection including caviar and accoutrements, crudos and oysters. Do not overlook the seafood tower. If you are a constant reader of Crave you will understand our affinity for the tower. It is a tableside homage to all things seafood that includes oysters, clams, mussels, enormous shrimp, and cold lobster all served with a selection of granitas and sauces. I would never spoil an perfect oyster with a sauce, but those granitas are delicate and at least one a bit spicy.
Our table enjoyed charred octopus served salad-like with Yukons, lemon and frisee which made is very fresh and delectable. Look to the roasted lamb ribs as well served with a mint labneh.
Main courses include a perfect rendition of a branzino placed on a cauliflower puree and offered with bite-sized baby vegetables. This fish was pure and distinct in flavor and sauced merely with a splash of lemon and a Yemini hot sauce made with fresh spicy peppers, cilantro and garlic called zhug. You may have seen this sauce by its other name, daqqus. The fish was immaculate.
Vegetarians will be sure to enjoy Up on Knox with amazing dishes such as their squid ink tagliatelle. Fresh made pasta with a spicy tomato sauce and chives makes for a perfect date night food that will pump you with energy and flavors, but refreshed for a night of dancing.
The winning dish of the night was Arroz Negro, dished up with Valencia rice, squid ink, a sofrito with squid and clams, roasted tomatoes and a saffron aioli. So light and refreshing as it is an eye full. This dish causes inter-table chatter.
Up on Knox is your new home for a taste of light-handed elegance served all day with charm. We will be back soon for brunch this Spring when we begin our search for the perfect brunches in the Dallas area. We imagine this one scoring extremely high in the ranks.