Skip the Pancakes, Brunch at Beverley’s

You know a brunch spot is working when the valet is full, the front patio is full, and nobody at any of the tables seems in a hurry to leave. That is Beverley’s Bistro & Bar on a Saturday around noon. The food is the reason, but the mood is why people stay. A couple at the bar splitting a plate of caviar latkes and not saying much because they do not need to. A family of six crammed into a corner booth with three kinds of eggs between them. Somebody at the next table ordering a second glass of prosecco before their plates have been cleared. You walk in and you feel like you just showed up at a party that was already going.

Kicked up Latkes, Caviar

Greg Katz opened the place in 2019 and named it after his mother. Her name is Beverley. She hosted long outdoor brunches and dinner parties at their house in Cape Town when Greg was growing up, and that is the feeling he was trying to rebuild in a converted bar on Fitzhugh. Katz came to Dallas from South Africa when he was eleven. Started washing dishes and prepping at seventeen, spent five years working under Dean Fearing at The Mansion, did time at Victor Tangos and with the Headington crew, and eventually decided to open his own neighborhood spot. Then Clifton Club, Green Point, and Claremont followed. But Beverley’s was first, and it is still the one that feels most personal.

The room is better than the building has any right to be. The address used to be a BJ’s, and before that a bar called Crews Inn, and you would drive past and not look twice. Inside is a different story. High ceilings, a long bar, black bistro tables, a courtyard, enough windows to make the light do most of the work. The crowd on a weekend is part Park Cities, part Uptown, part East Dallas neighbors who walked over from two blocks away. That mix is the whole point.

The menu is Greg’s. It pulls from everywhere he has been — a little New York deli, a little French bistro, a little Jewish family table, a little Cape Town memory. The caviar latke is the dish everybody has seen on Instagram. It deserves the attention. But there is a lot more going on if you know where to look, and a good brunch here starts by ordering wider than you think you need to.

Here is the move.

Start with caviar and latkes at twenty-five dollars. Crisp potato latkes, a thick schmear of crème fraîche, pickled shallots, chives, and osetra caviar on top. If there are four of you, spring for the Latkes Deluxe at thirty instead — you get two of each style, caviar and smoked salmon and smoked trout roe, all on one plate. This is how you begin.

Then order a matzo ball soup for fourteen and put it in the middle of the table. Not because everyone wants soup at brunch, but because this one is made with chicken confit and fresh herbs and the first person to taste it is going to want another spoonful. Do it.

For mains, I would grab two and split them. Challah French toast at nineteen is the sweet one — thick-cut house challah, berries everywhere, Chantilly cream, powdered sugar. Shakshuka at eighteen is the savory counterpoint — eggs baked in a spicy tomato sauce with peppers and onions and olives and yogurt, pita on the side to scoop it all up. Those two between the table cover the whole spectrum.

Fried Artichoke

If somebody wants something heavier, Bev’s chicken schnitzel at twenty-seven is the dish the regulars come back for. A breaded chicken cutlet that runs the size of a dinner plate, lemon caper butter, butter lettuce, charred lemon. Greg grew up eating his mom’s version of it. You can taste that. The jumbo lump crab cake at twenty-nine is the other grown-up main — almost no filler, soft poached eggs over the top, snap peas and dill. Order it if you are celebrating something.

A few more I would not skip. The pastrami on rye at twenty-two is the real thing, which Dallas does not have enough of. The bagel and lox at twenty-one is Acme smoked salmon on an everything bagel with all the stuff. The double cheeseburger at twenty-one is there for the table contrarian who does not want eggs — three more bucks and they will put a sunny-side on top, which brings it back to brunch. The farm egg omelet with raclette cheese is simple and perfect, and you can add osetra caviar for fourteen more if you are having that kind of morning.

On drinks, do the Bev’s House Martini. Thyme, lemon, and Castelvetrano-infused vodka, Lillet Blanc, orange bitters, eighteen dollars. One of the best brunch martinis in the city, not even close. If you skipped coffee, do the espresso martini instead. If the table wants something lighter and bubblier, the Royale 75 does the job. And a glass of prosecco never hurt anybody at eleven in the morning.

Save room for the sticky toffee cake. Thirteen dollars. Toffee sauce, Heath bar pieces, vanilla bean ice cream. This is the dessert to order even when everyone has said they are full. Two forks. It will vanish.

Beverley’s runs brunch Saturday and Sunday from eleven to two. After two the mid-day menu takes over, which still has the caviar and latkes and most of the cold bar, but no French toast and no shakshuka until the next weekend. Get there before one if you want the whole menu. Reservations through Resy are smart on any weekend the weather is good, because the patios fill up first and you do not want to be stuck at an interior table when it is seventy-two outside.

3215 North Fitzhugh Avenue. Valet out front. Bring a friend, order too much, stay another hour.

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