Tag Archives: Travel writer

Crave Travel: Make Cabo Part of Your Plan

Picture this. The sun is dropping fast over the Pacific, going from gold to copper to something close to red, and you’re sitting on a cliffside terrace with a cold drink, watching the light hit a 200-foot rock arch rising straight out of the sea. Below you, two oceans meet — the Pacific on one side, the Sea of Cortez on the other — and the line where they collide is visible from where you’re sitting. Pelicans work the thermals. A whale surfaces maybe a quarter mile out, exhales a plume of white mist, and slides back under. The waiter arrives with something involving good tequila and fresh lime. You are at the edge of the Baja California peninsula, and this is a Tuesday.

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Your 4th of July Escape: Floating the Guadalupe River in New Braunfels

About four hours south of Dallas, in a bend of the Texas Hill Country where limestone cliffs and centuries-old cypress trees hang over cold, clear water, the Guadalupe River has been the answer to a Texas summer for as long as anyone can remember. The stretch between Gruene and New Braunfels is the most popular tubing corridor in the state — a million people float it annually — and the 4th of July weekend is when that number becomes very real, very quickly. Book everything in advance. Show up early. Then get in the water and forget you were ever hot.

There is something about cold water in July that resets everything. The Guadalupe runs spring-fed out of the Hill Country limestone and stays genuinely cold regardless of what the air temperature does, and the moment you slide off the bank and into the current, the afternoon reorganizes itself around the only thing that matters: getting downstream slowly, under the cypress trees, past the rope swings and the limestone banks, with no particular plan and nowhere to be. The river moves at its own pace and takes you with it.

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The Rathskeller in Fredericksburg is Worth the Drive from Dallas

There is a particular kind of restaurant that Dallas doesn’t have enough of — the kind where the building itself is the first course. The Rathskeller in Fredericksburg is that restaurant. Fredericksburg sits about four hours southwest of Dallas in the Texas Hill Country, a small German-settled town of 12,000 people surrounded by vineyards, peach orchards, and limestone hills that turn gold in the afternoon light.

You walk down a flight of limestone steps off Main Street, duck through a low doorway, and find yourself in the basement of a building that was already old when Teddy Roosevelt was president. The walls are 1880s Hill Country limestone. The ceiling is low. The light is warm. The food is better than a room like this has any obligation to produce.

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The Pocono Mountains Are Calling: Here’s Everything You Need to Know

The first time you drive into the Pocono Mountains, something happens around the point where the highway narrows and the trees take over both sides of the road. The noise just stops. I have made this drive more times than I can count and it still happens every single time. What I tell first-timers is this: do not overthink it. The Poconos are not trying to be anything other than what they are — mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and a pace of life that reminds you what a weekend is actually supposed to feel like. The dining has become genuinely good over the years, the lodging runs from a historic lodge with 5,500 acres to a budget resort on a lake, and the outdoor options will fill every hour you have and then some. Go with a loose plan and a full tank of gas. The region will take care of the rest.

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Experience Santa Fe for a Week or Just a Few Days

Santa Fe is eight hours by car from Dallas — I-40 west through Amarillo, then north on I-25 past Albuquerque and up into the high desert until the city appears in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains at 7,000 feet. You can also fly into Albuquerque and rent a car for the one-hour drive north, or fly direct into Santa Fe’s small airport. Either way, this is one of the most rewarding food and travel weekends available to anyone living in North Texas, and it has been hiding in plain sight for years.

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A Friday Night Under the Stars: Five Texas Drive-Ins

The drive-in almost disappeared. Texas had nearly four hundred of them in the nineteen-fifties, more than any state in the country, and now there are fewer than twenty. The ones that survived did it on stubbornness, mostly — family-owned places that never stopped believing a warm night and a big screen and a car full of people was a good way to spend a Friday. Some of them have been running the same single screen since 1948. Some have expanded into four and seven screens. They all still tune to FM radio for the sound. They all still sell popcorn that tastes better than it has any right to. And every one of them is worth the drive from Dallas for a weekend.

Here are the five I would point you toward, from the closest one to the furthest.

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Vacation Time: Eureka Springs for the Win

There is a town in the northwest corner of Arkansas that sits in the Ozark Mountains on streets so steep and winding that no two of them ever intersect at a right angle. The whole downtown is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Victorian buildings are painted in colors that would embarrass a Key West postcard. It has a legendary haunted hotel, a world-class piece of architecture hiding in the woods, a big cat sanctuary, and a local culture that has always attracted artists, eccentrics, and people who just needed somewhere different to be. It is about six hours from Dallas and most people have never been. The town is Eureka Springs, and it is worth every mile of the drive.

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The Complete Guide to Block Island, Rhode Island

There’s a ferry that runs out of Point Judith on the Rhode Island coast. Ride it an hour southeast on a clear morning, salt air coming off the bow, and you’ll arrive at a place that seems to have quietly opted out of the twenty-first century — not ungraciously, but meaningfully.

Block Island, officially the town of New Shoreham, sits twelve miles offshore in the Atlantic. It winters down to roughly a thousand souls and swells every summer into something considerably livelier. Shaped loosely like a pork chop, it runs about three miles wide and seven miles long, and nearly every inch of it earns your attention.

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