The boats still make their slow loop below the River Walk turnaround, same as they always have. But look up now from that spot near the Shops at Rivercenter and something has changed. Where a food court used to sit — the every mall has (had), fluorescent and forgettable — there’s now a sprawling, more than 20,000-square-foot space that smells like fresh masa and citrus-cured fish, with a mural of La Catrina watching over the room like she’s been there since the building went up.
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