Tag Archives: Italian

Via Triozzi Just Added Sunday Brunch — and the Rooftop Above

Leigh Hutchinson opened Via Triozzi on Lower Greenville in August 2023 and it landed immediately — handmade pasta, a Sicilian-American grandmother’s recipes, flour imported from Italy, and a room that felt nothing like the chain Italian that had been filling the gap in Dallas for years. The lasagne al forno became the dish people drove for. The bistecca alla fiorentina gave it range. The all-Italian wine list, built around natural and low-intervention producers, gave it a point of view.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

This Is the Italian White Wine You’ve Been Missing

Most people have written off Soave entirely. That’s understandable. For decades the name meant cheap, thin Italian white wine — the kind of thing that ends up in a carafe at a red-checkered-tablecloth restaurant without anyone asking for it by name. A lot of Soave still is that. But the category has a ceiling most drinkers have never seen, and the 2023 Pieropan La Rocca is about as close to that ceiling as it gets.

The Pieropan family has been making wine in Soave since 1890. The fourth generation runs things now, and their La Rocca bottling — named for the single five-hectare vineyard it comes from on the slopes of Monte Rocchetta — has been one of the benchmarks of Italian white wine since its first release in 1978. The vineyard is farmed organically, the soils are limestone-rich clay, and the grape is 100 percent Garganega.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

This East Dallas Restaurant is Better Than It Has Ever Been

Urbano Cafe should not still be open. Mitch and Kristen Kauffman founded it in 2009 in the century-old building on Fitzhugh that also houses Jimmy’s Food Store, ran it for 15 years, and decided they were done. The announcement went out, the regulars grieved, and that should have been the end of it.

Then Sina and Pasha Heidari made one phone call and one demand. The demand was non-negotiable: every employee stays. Chef Oseas Lopez, in that kitchen since 2011. General manager Kevan LaTorre, there since 2011. The whole staff. We covered the sale when it happened in early 2024. What we did not know then was how good the next chapter was going to be.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Tiffany Derry’s Radici Is Making May Worth Showing Up For

Tiffany Derry’s Radici Wood Fire Grill has been one of the more interesting stories in DFW dining since it opened — an Italian concept built around a wood-fired grill, handmade pastas, and a chef who has never been shy about folding Texas into everything she does. May is a good month to pay attention to what both locations are doing.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Denton’s Osteria Il Muro Is a James Beard Finalist. It Seats 22 People

There is a restaurant in Denton called Osteria Il Muro with 22 seats, a backyard garden, and a menu that changes every single day. It is one of the hardest reservations in North Texas. People set calendar alarms for the last Monday of each month — the one morning the next month’s tables are released — and still don’t always get in.

The chef who runs it is a James Beard finalist for Best Chef: Texas. His name is Scott Girling. Most of Dallas has never heard of him.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Trattoria Bugatti to Debut April 20 in Midway Hollow

The Bugatti name has meant something in Dallas Italian dining for a long time, and now there’s a new chapter. Trattoria Bugatti opens Monday, April 20 at 3850 W Northwest Hwy in Midway Hollow — just down the street from where the original Bugatti Ristorante stood before it moved to Farmers Branch.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

Sant Ambroeus Dallas: Milan’s Iconic Italian Restaurant Is Coming to Knox Street

Dallas has been on a serious run lately, and the restaurants are starting to reflect it. The latest proof: Sant Ambroeus has chosen Knox Street for its first Texas location, opening in 2026, most likely Fall — and if you know the name, you know what that means.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle

A Look at Caffe Lucca

Image

Caffe Lucca is a collaboration between Dallas restaurateur Julian Barsotti and former NFL head coach Jason Garrett. Babe Laufenberg has been rumored to be part of this project but he vehemently denies this in a Facebook post.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Steven Doyle